Cooling not too happy :/ (pics posted).. OK, happier now :D

Things look like they are coming together now Monkeyspank, looks much nicer with clear stuff in the tubes

 

thanks bigZ, appreciate it
its all working like a charm now thanks to everyones help.

Its quiet (panaflo fans) + cools really well. Thanks again everyone..

 

Hi guys, MonkeySpank I have drained and flushed out my system especially my rad after re-routing my tubing and mounting the rad at the top of my case. I then refilled my system with new deionised water and and ran the system for 24 hours. No leaks and my system temp was down by 5-6 degrees, it turns out one of the tubes was to tight and was pulling the waterblock off the processor . Anyway after a couple of days I added water wetter again and nothing happened I recon it was either crap in the rad or the UV dye I put in.

 

waylander - after i drained my system i realised i had gunky tubes but i replaced one of them (the intake on the cpu block - look at the picture!) which is now really clean. this time i used only a small amount of water wetter + it seems ot have done the job.

Water wetter should have a big label on it saying not to use too much cos if you do then your tubes get messy. - thanks to coolmeister for helping me with mixture percentages

ps. i have found that a quick fix for a kinked tube is to put a hose clip on the apex of the kink (as per pic), This even kept my tubing less kinked even after i removed the clip. I keep changing the clip about 3-4 cm left + right and it seems to keep that peice of hose nice + round.

 

looks good mate!

Must get my fuggin side panels finished

 

Yeah looking nice monkeyspank. Also nice name. Good job.

 

OOpps I forgot to say all my pipes were misty so replaced the lot

 

just read through most of the thread, very interesting read. its a shame you had to be the guinea pig for everyone to look at but good to see you have solved your problems now. so what kind of temps are you running now monkey? hopefully alot less that before.

 

i never worry too much about temps. at my last bios update my temps went up about 8 degrees C. Which to believe?? i reckon neither.

at the moment my cpu runs at 36-40 idle and about 46-50 under heavy load, depending on if i have the window open etc etc.

Its hotter than when i had the fast papst fans at 12V but i can clock it to exactly the same speed, still rock solid stable
This really has to tell me that the whole cooling system is a lot more efficient now. The air coming out of the top of my case feels warm now

im running it at 215x11 - 2365 Mhz. I've got my eyes on one of those new swiftech coolers when they are available. that might help me shift up a gear.

as a sidenote - i had noticed some audio corruption at these speeds so i stuck a zalman NB cooler on my southbridge, which seems to have sorted the problem out.

 

Had a similar experience...

Here is the story:

Got a new system so proceeded to connect it all up and run it on deionised water for 24 hours to leak test. All ran fine with crystal clear water.

The next day I installed the system into my case and for some reason I added 3ml of water wetter to the water (clean stuff as the stuff that was in it for 24 hours was used to flush out crap).

As soon as I added the water wetter the water went milky (bubbles I thought). So I left it for a couple of days for the milkyness to go. Well after about 30 hours the water was clear again but white powdery stuff was all over the inside of the tunes res and waterblocks.

I took the system apart and ran each bit with water then water with water wetter and it seems that the radiator was producing the milkyness when water wetter is added. I am now having to run without water wetter (just plain deionised water and anti algae stuff).

Lesson to be learnt -- something doesn't like water wetter so don't use it.

 

Dont suppose yours was a thermochill rad spike, as thats what monkey has according to his post. Just wondering if maybe its only certain makes of rads that make it go milky? a long shot i know but just a thought.

 

It's a black ice pro 120mm single

 

ah well its the watter wetter all along then

 

Sorry to dig up an old thread.. but..
I've recently installed a WC setup into my system, consisting of:
Aquatube Res
Hydor L30 pump
Tygon 3/8" ID tubing
Black Ice Extreme rad
Swiftech MCW5000 cpu block.

In my leak test out of the system I have used just under a litre of de-ionised water with maybe half a cap (not much at all) of water wetter. As soon as I turned on the pump I have had the same problem as the people in this thread> Cloudyness and bubbles, foam in the res, etc. So I tried to do what Nexxo? suggested and scoop out the foam from the res, topping up with clean de-ionised water. Then jiggle the system about and make sure there are virtually no air gapss / bubbles, then turn the pump back on.
Well I have done this 3 times now and 8 hours later its still foaming, and there looks like a fairly inconsistant flow out fo the pump (which is also fairly hot)



could anyone help me please?

 

My experience with the Hyperlube brand stuff has been great. I only run a single 80mm rad with a standard UV LED 80mm fan at 12V.

My temps are 38-40C idle (not low, but its a single 80mm with a 600l pump on it) and maybe as high as 50C when gaming (not 100% load, but pretty high with my graphics settings). My case temp stays nice and low by comparison at 29-36C even under load.

I'm currently clocked up at 2.046Mhz on my Barton 2500+ and my Gainward Golden Sample at 527/1050 although I've had it up to 540/1080. My VC is NOT watercooled, but I run one of the Antec UV fan slot fans when OC'd.

Just my 2C on the subject, too bad you can't find any Hyperlube, maybe Schucks will ship internationally? Maybe like the LCD buys, you could get a case and distribute to the W/Cers in UK? Just a thought, here is the link for the home office.

Hyperlube Coolant Additive
and the store:Hyperlube Store

 

benje - have you tried, block - rad - res pump? You might find that it's the speed at which the water is entering the res that's causing the problem?

p.s. Its good to see the res up and running

 

yea its great thanks jetsetjimbo

anyway - To do that setup will be much more difficult in my case, and many people have recomended me this way!
Everybody who has done this before and made threads about it have all cured it relatively simply, so I hope to aswell!

 

Changing the position of the res relative to other components in the loop would not change anything. The water doesn't slow down as it travels through the loop. It will enter the res at the same speed where ever it is.

8-ball

 

Benje - Flush it out, fill it without w/wetter. Just straight distilled water, as Spike did.
Get all the air out and make sure the level is up in the res (top of res inlet) before you add anything.

Might help you isolate the problem.

I just tried throwing a setup together to test out for you with a mix of high flow components and an AquaTube.

Order & parts -
Res: AquaTube (10/8mm pushfit out, 10mm barb in)
Pump: 1048 (10/8mm pushfit in/out) [only have L20s and a 1250 otherwise, but the 1250's unused]
Block: Atlantis (10/8mm pushfit in, 10mm barb out) [don't have a Swifty block]
Rad: '69 Camaro h/core ...I think (1/2" barbs) [I do have BI Pro & Extreme here but they're unused too]



No water wetter, no bubbles either.

Hope it helps.

 

Hey pug, thanks alot for going to the trouble of setting up a similar loop to test for me. Very kind.

I did what you guys said, drained and then re-filled with de-ionised water, with no WW. Good in the fact that the water is clear and not at all cloudy. But there is still a great deal of tiny bubles flowing around the system, and it looks like inconsistant flow from the pump. Currently running with the res lid off to let air escape, and has been on for a while. Do you think that it is maybe something to do with the radiator being before the pump - maybe causing bubles to form somewhere?

also the res seems to be very "bubly" :|

Btw I think that the bubles are causing the pump to heat up and make a loud fizzing sound - like the tiny bubles passing through it. Not good i tells ya