If anyone is more interested check out this massive thread on Procooling http://forums.2cpu.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32859&perpage=30&pagenumber=1
Well... Running the thinnest oil you can still won't get you good results. Even if you used Sullairs KT24 which is like $1000 a barrell you wouldn't have enough heat convection ability. The reason why they use oil in motors, etc. is because of not only lubrication, but the ability to withstand high heat and still keep it's molecular properties. Unlike water which turns into a gas vapor. Oil isn't made for cooling.
well... wow thats fun i didnt mean needing the thinnest oil for heat conduction, i only meant so it could be pumped with a normal pond pump i might get one of my old rigs in a fish tank and then just oil cool it for silence... will be fun! maybe put a few in there (say 5) and have a good old folding farm!
remember everyone-- oil is pumped thrugh a car engine only to keep it lubed. cars use water to cool the engine thrugh the radiator. and cars have been running for 100s of years and billions of km... if oil was good at cooling you would think they would have used it in cars already? water loop is the way to keep it
misinformation yah this has been done once or twice before, Oil is already used extensively in Transformers and basically any oil from car (messy) to veggie (yummy) could be used. IT doesn't cool as efficiently as Water, but better than air so its all gravy. As a matter of fact although oil's primary purpose in a car is for lubrication it also is used to cool in fact on some motorcycles they have smaller oil coolers or fins on the oil pan (which also gets good airflow) in fact most modern sportbikes only need about 1-3 liters of oil to actually run the extra is to help increase the cooling ability. with that being said, there would be no point to run oil in a closed loop like water cooling as its much too viscous and yah its not as effecient of a cooler. now for the interesting fact of the day, water is in fact dielectric, and you could in theory run a computer in water given that its relatively pure, water being a universal solvent dissolves salts which lower its resistance. In pure form its worse as a conductor than air! in conclusion go for it, but its gonna be mighty hard to pump the oil any distance from a fridge to the tank
FluidXP is basically a real low-viscosity oil however --but one formulated for great thermal conductive properties. As for spraying Perfluorcarbon over the heatsinks, the stuff evaporates at room temperature so you would have to have it all happen in an airtight container. I'm not sure spraying would be any good however; traditionally supercomputer circuits are submerged in Perfluorcarbon. I just use it conventionally: in a liquid cooling loop. Works fine.
hey all you could use de-ionized water, but then you'd be a F******* fool, as the "de"ionized water PICKS up ions during movement DUH!!!! i was going to do that, then talked to my physics teacher about it, but it picks up ions from movement. fluid XP would work, but it costs tons perfluorbon would work if you built a sealed container (and sucked the air out maybe) and then filled the container, threw a say l30 (submersible) pump in there, and have a piece of tubing picking up the perfluorbon and throwing it through a radiator outside of the perfluorbon in say a fridge or the perfluorbon going to a chiller, then have it coming back and split up into say 3 seperate peices, and directed over to the hot parts (CPU/s, NB, GPU/s and what not) im tempted to do something like that once i get a job and what not, just using some generic 'ol tools, some brain work and old hardware! the box part is easy! fishtank with a sealable top and a suction tap (to attach to a compressor and suck the air out) then fill it with perfluocarbon and have tubing going to a rad etc etc bla bla bla, just for laugh's see how quiet you can make it
We all know that. People use de-ionised water simply because it is cleaner than tap water and easier to buy than distilled water (practically the same thing anyway). And language, deary. Still waiting for the new information bit... ...alternatively, you just build a regular closed watercooling loop with an in-line pump, blocks and radiator, fill it with Perfluorcarbon, and away you go. Of course the res should be watertight in any case, and you don't want to fill it right to the top because Perfluorcarbon expands a bit more than water does when warm. Sorted. If you go with the spray container idea, you don't have to suck any air out (where did you get that idea?). However why not just submerge the whole lot then?
i meant suck the air out so you could make it a vacuum, not in a closed loop, i was thinking as a whole sealed unit with the pc in pleurofskslslsl carbons yeah well... ive got a new venture on the horizons, im going to make a bong cooler for those unfarmiliar it is an open loop, with a huge "bong" that has water coming from the top from a showerhead - or alike, going to the bottom where it is picked up and sent back around the loop, the waterfall is cooled by a fan, my bong cooler will have 2x 80mm's on either side of the bong, blowing in and up, with a 120mm at the top with a tube going out my window (to vent the humid air out of the window, reducing humidity build up!) this isnt going to be for anything serious... but if it works i may consider modifying it to work on my main rig, ive got an old 1/2" maze 4 laying around, and i can get a hydor l30 easily, the bong part will be very cheap aswell, since i work @ a garden centre the pump will be INSIDE the bong, as l30's are submersible, giving me a bit more space, i plan on making a see through cut out in the bong, which will have acrylic behind it, so i can see the waterlevel and what not, downside of bong cooling is that it evaporates, meaning it has to be filled everyday but ohh well price you pay for below ambient temps if it works successfully i will think of modifying my bong design with vortex's and what not, if it doesnt work sucessfully ill ditch it... simple
I know what you mean, but you don't need to make the sealed unit vacuum for it to work (if anything, you encourage the Perfluoracarbon to evaporate. And in a sealed container full of PF vapour, you really don't want any sparks to occur).
bong, or evaprotive, cooling does work. i built a setup for a scince fair project. it was 2 55 gallon trashcans stacked on top of eachother with a 300gph pond pump circulating the water from bottom to the top. at the bottom, above the water line (maybe 2' up) there are a series of 3" holes around, maybe 5" apart. on the inside, each hole had a slanted cover epoxyed in so that falling water could not get out. at the top, i had a plastic fruit bowl with its plastic top poked full of about 1000 holes. i made the holes with a very small brad (nail) in my drimmel. the pump had 1.5" tubing that connected it (was submurged in the botom) to the fruit bowl, which was halfway up the second garbage can. by the time the pump got the water up ~10', there was just enugh pressure to shoot the water out of the holes. finaly, there was a big 120v 4' wide house fan attached to the top of the upper garbage can, blowing air up and out. in the middle of the 2 cans was the condesner (hot side) of a large in-window air conditioner, which came out of the window... the "bong" was on my deck. (there was no way this was running inside). it had a garden hose attached to an old toilet valve to refil the water when it got low. anyway, the point of the scince fair thing was to study how heat transferd thrugh realy cold stuff, and i needed low temps because i was using a propane torch as the heat source. there was LCD crystle paint in the stuff i was testing, and a digital video camrea recorded their color changes as the torch heated the stuff. all very boaring, but about the bong: this thing was huge, and when it got realy hot outside (90+ f) it still kept the hot end of the cooler below 60f, even durring my tests when the compresser was running contiously. it used a ton of water, the hose would turn on every 10 minutes for a minute or two... and if you put your hand over the exaust fan it was almost dripping in seconds. i asked my parents if i could keep it running for use with my computer, but they didnt like that idea. it was huge, and ugly, and loud, and used a lot of water. but if anyone wants the coldest computer on this fourm, build a bong with vapor cooling! but keep it outside, because it will raise the humidity of you house like 2000x
FYI mineral oil destabilises the rubber seals on capacitors. If you're working on a submersion project that uses mineral oile you have to seal the underside of the capacitors on the motherboard with some form of silicone sealant.
