Got it! It had to be wired with the constant + and ignition wires both going to the positive post on the external PSU. I'll try to figure something else out in time, but first I need to build some speakers. Also, for it to open properly, I need to do a little more filing, but that should be easy.
Try hooking the grounds of the 2 PSUs together, and then using the yellow wire (for the ignition). That might work
looks realy nice dude. bet you have had to put some major time into that modd. anyway looks good keep up the good work
Great! Looks VERY nice! That new PSU that you got strictly for the MD player, does that have a remote power-on? If not, why not just hook up a relay between the computer PSU and the ignition wire of the MD player? That way it will turn on and off with the computer like it would in a car.
That looks soo nice! I love how the blue display integrates so well with the sceme of the case. Plus the flippy front deal is awe inspiring! I've actually come up with an idea for my current project by being prompted with your md player. I went rumaging through boxes in my parents attic and found my old dash mount 40x40 7-channel eq that was in my car as a teen! I tested it and works perfectly! The coolest part about it though is that is has a 7-band eq (as mentioned) along with an led 7-band spectrum analyzer! My only concern is heat. It's got some nasty heat-sinks on the side of the unit! Thanks for the inspiration! Problem is that I have to go back to their house tomarrow to get it as I left it sitting on their kitchen counter.
Here's a video of the MD player's faceplate working properly. Right-click, Save Target As... >> http://www.boomspeed.com/sixate/mdrotate.MPG By the way.... Dad, I might have to give that EQ idea a go as well. I'll go see if I can find a cheapie on eBay.
*begins designing speakers...* There's no point in having a four-channel amp in my case (inside the receiver) if it's not going to be running any speakers. Each speaker cabinet will hold 2 of these little 2" drivers. They have 1-peice aluminum cones with rubber surrounds, and they play from 100Hz up to 18kHz. They're 8 ohms each, and wll be wired in parallel so the amp will see 4 ohms per channel. They're magnetically sheilded, so I don't need to sheild the cabinets. Cute, huh? ...the subs will come later...
It looks like they're going to be 116mm tall, 63mm wide, and 63mm deep, made of ¼" thick MDF and then covered with Cherry veneer... --or-- ...made of ¼" thick plexiglas that is tinted from the inside with inline LEDs that light up to the beat of the music. Hmmm....
wood alwasy go for wood stronger will sound better less vibration from the cabinet so less colourisation of the sound i thought you would have used a sex of compnent speakers froma car & built a enclosure around them
I'll probably go with wood, but I'm not sure yet. I don't want to use car speakers because they're unshielded and also too big. I want to keep these speakers as small as possible; besides, they're not my main speakers, anyway.
i still vote for wood as it will give you teh best sound the drivers can produce, just a plain simple box will do (if you knwo the laoding space for the speakers even better) i would recomend soem acoustic waddign in the box as well to help absorb standign waves in the cabinet
Way ahead of ya! I still have polyester fiberfill and some dynamat left over from my last speaker project, so if I go with wood, those will both be in the box.
Hey, I like those speakers! Can you give more information about them - make/model? I also vote STRONGLY for wood - specifically MDF. You will never get the same sound from plexi. Also, for something like what you're doing (relative high-power), I would actually step up the thickness to at least 3/8" or preferably 1/2". I know you're going to add a sub, but the mid-bass frequencies are just as important. Also by doing it that way, you will be able to cross your sub at a lower frequency so that it's more efficiant below 100Hz and let the 2" drivers handle the rest. Like you said use the cherry veneer. For grills, since they're only 2", grab a couple of 60mm fan grills instead - maybe in "gold". That would be H-O-T!
How are you going to keep the stereo cool? Just warning you they get ver hot! Can't you rig up some ducting and use one of the blowholes as dedicated cooling for it?
Dad, nice idea about the gold fan grilles. I might try that. I've pretty much already decided on wood, but I haven't chosen a thickness yet. As far as the drivers go, you can get them right here. They're great little drivers, so I expect some pretty good sound out of them. They'll be crossed over at 100Hz by way of the receiver's built-in crossover, but I have to build crossovers for the subs since the receiver doesn't have a low-pass c/o built in. The cherry veneer is left over from another project, so thankfully I won't have to buy any more because it's pretty expensive. :: Phat ::, I already have a 120mm ehaust fan directly above the receiver for just that purpose. I ran the wires for that fan to it's own dedicated channel of my Rheobus so I can adjust it as needed without cranking up my other exhaust fans, too. Also, if it gets too hot in there, then I can always use some aluminum sheet to block off the receiver from the rest of the inside of the case.
