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Project Redwood 3.0 -by ZapWizard -Jan 15th '05

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by ZapWizard, 19 Mar 2005.

  1. Poggie

    Poggie New Member

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    That is one sharp mod. A bit of an overclass person? A bet you can sell that as a design computer a fair amount of money. Why can't I think of something like that :wallbash:
     
  2. IanW

    IanW Grumpy Old Git

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    Zap, you should be able to get piano hinge at any hardware store. It's not specifically for pianos anymore.
     
  3. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

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    I didn't see anything at home depot, so I will look around at lowes.

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    Text Update:
    www.C-Systems.ca, who makes a tiny pump has contacted me, as they are releasing their MAG drive version to retail soon, and are willing to contribute one to this project. I know their old-pump got a bad reputation, but I will give their new model a try. I would rather have the threaded taps, rather then plastic nubs that the DCC pump has, also the C-Systems pump was in my original design, and their mounting system is easy. Their original pump had good flow, and c-systems says this one is even better.
     
  4. mondriaan

    mondriaan New Member

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    Why didn't I see this thread before. :duh:

    Zap is on a roll again. I'm subscribed. :D
     
  5. greywolf

    greywolf New Member

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    They are generally not in the Hardware section (were the "normal" hinges are). I've found them along with the bar metal, threaded rods and metal angles display. It's at the end of the nuts & bolts aisle at my HD.

    Hope this helps in the quest for piano hinge. :)
     
  6. Bum

    Bum New Member

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    Have you tried steaming the wood veneer to get the compound curves on the mouse? It's just an idea off the top of my head but it seems like it might work depending on how workable the Paduak is as veneer.
    My other thought would be to kerf-cut the back side of the veneer in a criss-cross pattern to give you maximum bendability around the curves. That would take a very steady hand with something like a fine-kerfed dovetail saw or maybe a razor saw, but you've already shown your patient enough to give it a try. Of course after 8 tries, your patience might be wearing thin :) .
     
  7. FanatiK

    FanatiK New Member

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    AHHHH!! Almost had a heart attack when you said this. Guess everyone has their own tastes.
    Zap, you went with a dial. I like that your are covering it with wood. Wont stick out so much. Will that ring around the dial be lighted or glow?
     
  8. rmojo

    rmojo New Member

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    I love this mod sooooo much! I am a woodworker and I think I might have a solution to your mouse mod. Have you tried a vacuum sealer? I have used a vacuum sealer(the one on late night TV for food) to get some very tight curves with veneer. All you need to do is put the veneer in hot water, take it out and place it on top of the form(mouse). Then place them both in the vacume bag and vac/seal the bag. Let it sit for a few hours and then open the bag. All you need to do is let it dry and then glue it up. I hope you can find someone with a vacuum sealer. If not I have heard that some people have used the cheap "space bags" found at Wallgreens and a shopvac.
     
  9. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

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    I will list all the things I have tried so far:
    -Boiling wood in water for 20 minutes
    -Cutting wood into 1" wide strips
    -Cutting wood into 1/4" strips
    -Soaking wood in denatured alcohol. I got some nice orange dye out of that.
    -Applying in strips using spray adhesive, and filling gaps with saw-dust.-No going back now as the mouse's paint finish is ruined.
    -Sanding veneer paper-thin (0.03mm!), and applying with spray adhesive.
    -Sanding veneer paper-thin, and applying with gorilla glue (Foams up and can fill some space)
    -Sanding veneer to paper-thin , boiling in microwave for 5 minutes, applying masking tape to outside to prevent cracking, applying double sided tape to other side. Claming it down with electrical tape which stretches nicely to the surface. Using clamps to press down any bumps. This one is currently still under clamps.

    I will try to see if cross-cutting the backside will help with the flexibilty.

    I have heard about using those walmart vacuum bags, and also using a sand-bag on top of the form. I think this wood's grain is still just too strong.
    At paper-thin you can hold one edge and it doesn't bend at all.

    I am running out of time before my next showcase event. (April TXGF)
    So I may ask Logitech to send me a MX1000 that I can just accent, and then I can take more time to get this mouse properly done.

     
  10. zr_ox

    zr_ox Whooolapoook

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    It sounds like the mouse may be taking a lot of abuse :eeek:

    Why dont you try making a mould of the mouse first maybe with modelling clay or polystyrene? That way the mouse will remain in one piece and you can try multiple methods for actually shaping the wood to the mouse frame. the frame may end up slightly oversized however a man of your skill will then easily be able to make the adjustments to the finished product.

    Just an idea (you probably already have thought about this though)

    Fantastic work!
     
  11. Thorn

    Thorn Gaijin Studios

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    goog work Zap next next photos work ! :thumb:
     
  12. KGB

    KGB New Member

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    very nice, love the wood. it seems people are finnally realising that wood is good! couple of them going on now, nice work cant wait to see more!
     
  13. gatecrasher1986

    gatecrasher1986 New Member

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    wow i do like this

    it looks real classy

    i do like the idea of the wheel and i love the proximity led lighting idea! ould you not use that idea to have the machine power on?

    get close to your pc and it turns on.

    as for the mouse nail it on! it is wood just use small nails and bend the nail over on the inside.

    just an idea but it is not as neat as gluing it.
     
  14. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

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    I have not made a mold, as once the wood finaly settles I don't want to risk cracking it moving it from the mold. Also this wood doesn't seem to hold it's shape anyways, even when steamed, clamped, and dried.

    There is already a power button to turn the system on. The proximity decection is only like 1cm... basicily it means the wheel knows that something is about to touch it, but not what location on the wheel is being touched.
    Nails, nor screws will work for the mouse. For one, there is ZERO room inside this mouse. (It's wireless and has a batter and other stuff inside) And for two, the goal is to keep the veneer from splitting, nails and screws would induce holes from which splits would originate.
     
  15. KayinBlack

    KayinBlack Currently Rebuilding

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    what about immediately coating with that epoxy stuff?

    If that's not feasible, the only way may be to recreate the mouse body in padauk and then transfer the internal components...
     
  16. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

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    The expoxy takes over a day to harden.
    And yep, scuplting a mouse was my first idea, I bought a $15 dremel wood shaping attachment, and have the wood standing by. The hardest part is all internal guts. A normal mouse only has a single PCB, a wireless has batteries, secondary PCB's and there is of course more buttons. (I can do with less buttons though) Another option, which sounds crazy, but is possible, is to reverse engineer the MX1000 and make my own mouse. (Custom PCB)
    If I did that I would have a touch-sensative scroll wheel like the Logitech Laptop mouse has.
     
  17. KayinBlack

    KayinBlack Currently Rebuilding

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    Your idea of a custom PCB mouse seems just so.... ZapWizard.

    Having worked in exotic hardwoods (musical instrument repair in college) I feel your pain. I vote for the custom mouse.
     
  18. drinn

    drinn New Member

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    Nice renders! :)
     
  19. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

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    I checked by home depot today, and did find nice brass piano hinges.
    They are too large for my project however. (In the hinge size, not length)
    My wood is only 1/4" thick, and the larger hinge requires larger screws.

    I did buy a third smaller hinge, which allows me to have a long single hinge look, but with a smaller diameter. It will also be stronger.

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    Here are some images of my various attempts at applying veneer to the mouse.

    [​IMG]
    -First the before shot.

    Boil the Veneer
    http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wood/mouse/02.jpg

    http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wood/mouse/03.jpg
    Applying veneer in cut strips

    http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wood/mouse/04.jpg
    The ruined mouse shell, and my latest attempt.

    http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wood/mouse/05.jpg
    My electrical tape applied to hold down veneer.

    [​IMG]

    Results of the latest attempt.
    It was much more successful, as far as actualy not pullin off the surface of the mouse. But as you can see there are still crimps and bumps.

    More details on the mouse in previous posts.
     
    Last edited: 23 Mar 2005
  20. ZapWizard

    ZapWizard Enter the Mod Matrix

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    [​IMG]

    I finished jig-sawing the feature holes in the curved wood.
    They need a bit of clean-up, but overall came out great.
    The edges and dial are next up.

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    http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wood/Woodwork/13.jpg

    Comparing the hand-done curve to the laser-cut reference.

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    http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wood/Woodwork/14.jpg

    Mock-up with electronics inside.

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    [​IMG]

    Mock-up with lid.
    Compare to before curving:
    http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wood/Woodwork/05.jpg
    And compare to the rendering:
    http://www.zapwizard.com/projects/wood/version3/11.jpg

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    I am working on the case feet right now, I should have them up in a few hours.
     

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