Just going through the shopping list for the summer project of water-cooling my PC... Firstly, I've been reading here about some issues with the Maze 3...is it a safe buy, or are there still some issues? Secondly, assuming I go for a maze...which one. There is a Maze 3 and a Maze 3-1? I'm not going to be using a peltier, just vanilla watercooling, so which block do I go for? Thirdly (and lastly), if the Maze is not an option, whats the recommended block to go for (its for an Athlon if that makes any difference, and I'll be using ½" tubing). Keep up the good work BTW, if it wasn't for reading this forum I never would have had the confidence to even dare this... BC
1) you can now get copper topped maze 3's which should have no probs 2) just a maze 3 3) ocpc neptune?
3-1 is for TECs so if you want a Maze 3 then get the 3-0 with a copper top preferably OCPC block rules tho'
Like Lucifer and CoolRunnin has said go for the Danger Den Maze 3 with copper top!http://www.extremecooling.co.uk/extreme/search?action=search&cid=30 However extreme / Tekheads do not appear to have these (Cu topped DDMz3's), send them an e-mail first........ I like the Over Clocked PC's Neptune alot, this surprised me only complaint I know about http://www.coolhardware.co.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=292 Go 4 IT! Mat
Seen the pics mat*ster? That's one pretty impressive faliure - looks like stress in the top itself which has been aggravated by screwing in the barbs etc. leading it to fail - what do ya reckon? Still stick to saying the block's quality tho' this is the ONLY leaf I've actually heard of with OCPC - I've politely asked them if they'll post the findings of the investigation they're going to do into the block so, unless I'm told to mind my own business, I'll post the info on here when it comes through
Wow thats a pretty bad crack. You know that looks alot like the cracks i had when my airtrap died on me. It started real small and the crack would get longer daily. For me it was because i didn't drill the holes properly. So i'm thinking that he just got a bad block, but i think he should of called the company first before posting pics..
yea annoyed me that he was bitching about them on different forums before he knew what they were gonna do about it. oh well it did look as though the barbs had been screwed in too tight, but he says it had been running 2 weeks before it failed. if it had been drilled incorrectly as above ^^ and he hadn't checked for cracks in 2 weeks then... o well
Whoa there gaddster!!! Seems the guy was pretty P***ed about that! I've been browsing round and it looks like he's posted in every forum he came across. I know he'd be really upset that the water damaged his G/C and M/B but slagging the product off before you've got everything sorted out with the retailer's a bit off It's not like there's been a number of faliures either (unlike Maze 3 inital production - problems are now sorted as Sam says ) Has anyone else heard of a problem with a Neptune and plastic barbs cracking enough to leak like this? I've not
i dunno how much truth there is in it, but i heard there have been a few probs with leaks. i haven't come accross any except for this one myself tho. definately less than the maze 3
I'm quite luck really - my rig is in a WTX case (read upside down m/b) so if a block splits the only thing that's gonna happen (unless it sprays a lot) is the bottom of the case will fill with water unfortunately this arrangement means its a b****** to get air out of the w/b - but my 1250 soon sorted that one out
Just had a look at the pic over at OCS forums, he has a big BUG to bear LEXAN® is Polycarb by GE Plastics. LUCITE® is PolyMethyMethAcrylate = Acrylic. That crack looks "strange" to me? So lets conduct a Failure Mode and Effects Analysis to see what potential causes can be identified with the highest risk priority. I have had an good read up about this subject over at the GE Plastics website. Technifacts, e.g. Lexan secoundary operations handbook (very informative) 1) Flexural stress, (force applied to barb in particular) 2) Torsionally applied force 3) Impact damage - notch stress concentrator 4) Environmental stress cracking 5) Stress crack induced by internal pressure 6) Thermal Stress / Expansion - Heat Deflection 7) Bonding material inappropriate (i.e Cynoacrylate, Poly-prop to Poly Carb) 8) ? I also found other good stuff like this extract about how to Form, Fabricate and Finish Lexan http://www.gestructuredproducts.com/sp/content/library/pdfs/tg103.pdf Extract - LEXAN sheet can be drilled easily using a standard twist drill design. High speed steel or carbide tipped twist drills will give the best results with the following conditions. Hole Diameter Speed (rpm) Feed (mtls./rev) Time (sec.) 1/8 1750 1-1/2-3 25-30 1/4 1000-1500 1-1/2-3 30 3/8 500-1000 1-1/2-3 30 1/2 325-650 3 45-50 3/4 350 3 50-60 To minimize the drill's tendency to pull into the material, modify the standard steel twist design by grinding a small flat on the cutting edge. NOTE: Do not use drills that have been ground for use on acrylic sheet. They will overheat the material, and induce unwanted stresses. The most important characteristics of Lexan® resin for mechanical fastening are its notch sensitivity, creep/relaxation resistance, and limited chemical resistance. Depending on the type of fastener, a permanent stress or deformation is applied locally. Clamp forces should be controlled or distributed over a large surface area - to decrease local stresses in the part after assembly, and minimize possible loosening of fasteners due to creep and relaxation. Notches in the design - as well as notches resulting from mechanical fasteners - should be avoided. Mechanical fasteners should be free from oil and grease. Recommended mechanical fastening techniques include 1) The use of thread-forming (as opposed to thread-cutting) screws with a flank angle of 30° 2) Inserts which leave low residual stresses, such as ultrasonic and heat inserts 3) Press and expansion inserts produce high hoop stresses in bosses and should therefore be used with caution I will resist the temptation of "saying what I think caused it to fracture". I suspect flexural (Bending) forces applied to the corner is the major factor! I am Well impressed at OCPC by the fact the post is still open and transparent ? Pun intended That shows confidence in the Block. I'mm not sure how the "lab" are going to I.D the root cause however! Mat
Once again => *mat-ster* to the rescue with the polymer facts Cheer's mat-ster that's definitely a load of really useful information and things to bear in mind whilst mounting your waterblock and the bit on expansion inserts - hose barbs with tapered threads will effectively expand and produce stress fractures if overtightened especially if then knocked .. hum de hum... not saying anything controversial am I ? They are going to need a pretty advanced lab to effectively conduct an investigaton tho - maybe they'll get a nearby university to help them
Cheers for all the info...I feel quite humbled I think you've put me off ever getting any kind of acrylic top of any sort...not a major issue as my PC innards arn't going to be on display...this is a watercool, nothing fancy apart from that. My next question is...next week I'm getting an ABIT Geforce 4 Ti4200...if for no other reason that it looks like a damn good deal (£130 for a geforce 4!!)...obviously I want this to be water-cooled as well...has anyone got any experience with this type of card (I know they are only just hitting the market at the mo) with watercooling...I was thinking the DangerDen generic GPU cooler? BC
I got a DD GF4 w/b (acrylic topped one). Ive not tried it yet but the quality us very nice indeed and the top should stay together as it's about 1/4" thick and has no barb holes in it Looks damn sweet too. I would check whether it will fit tho as some non bga cards with ramsinks will not fit properly so I've read... as long as you have no ramsinks you should be o.k. but i'd take a very close look at the photos just to be safe If it fits i'd say go for it - very nice high-flow block
I did read something about non-standard holeage... This mentions it in the summary... Finding pictures is tricky to say the least...the closest I've got I've this...not the best picture in the world...I suppose it comes down to how much I want to risk it, oh, and I'm not sure that you can get that block in the UK yet (it looks lurvely BTW, saw some piccys on the DD website)...so I suppose its this for me...seems the safest choice. BC
Well, babychaos - I've had a look at that photo and the holes used are the same as the rest of the Ti's and it hasn't got ramsinks so I reckon it should fit The only thing I can see os what looks like a capacitor between the ram chips on the side of the card. It will be this which determines the block IMO - if it's too tall to route the hose over you're stuck the hose leaves at a fairly steep angle of about 45 degrees, 50mm from the centre of the GPU the barb is nearly 20mm (actually 17.5mm with thick walled silicon) clear of the card - if you can measure the heigt of that capacitor and it's less than 15mm or so high then looks like the block will be o.k. If you want any more measurements I'll get the Vernier Calipers out again for ya
