RallyRoach's Stealth Floppy Drive Cover I, like many, just can't have a computer without a floppy drive. USB keys are still too expensive (yes I squeak when I walk ), but the floppy drive is just so ugly. So I dug into my old bag of tricks from building model cars. The hinge shown here is the same I used when I was making a working trunk (boot for those of you across the pond), is really simple, but slick looking. I'll apologize in advance for my pix, as I'm only using my Palm camera here. Materials needed: - Floppy Bay cover (duh ) - razor saw - X-acto knife - Jewelers files - Side and End cutters - pliers (needle nose, flat nose, large and small) - Hot glue gun (or epoxy) - Clicky latch (someone tell me the proper name for these things PLEASE!!) - Dremel - Solder (1.2mm best) - Brass rod and Brass Tube (any size, but rod must fit inside tube nice and snug. I used 3/32" rod with 1/8" tube) First, we need to get the bay cover ready. I'm using plastic here (Cheiftec Dragon case), but any cover should work. Put some masking tape on the outside part to preserve the finish of the paint (or metal). With the plastic covers I have, we need to cut off the clips that hold it in, and remove the ribs from the outside thirds only. We need some flex, but not too much. Decide which way is "UP" for the cover (I always mark it), then remove about 2-3mm from the inside edge of the top and sides. End cutters work great for all this. Next, we add the hinge barrels. Cut slots in the bottom edge of the cover large enough for the rod you're using. Clean up the remains of the ribs and tabs so it's nice and flat with some files and your knife. Then cut a length of tubing about 3/4 the inside width of the cover. Use some hot glue to secure these in place at each end. On to the hinge! Remove your case's front bezel and cut a piece of tubing about 3.5" long and TACK it in place as shown with the glue gun. Grab a length of solder, make it long enough so you've got about 3" to play with on each end. I use solder here because its softer and easier to work with than brass for desiging the hinge template. Hold the bay cover in place and bend the solder in the general shape as shown, sticking each hinge pin into the barrels we put on the bay door. You can also place the upper 3.5" bay cover in place for this, but the design of this hinge allows the door to swing out cleanly without catching on anything. I actually ended up moving the tube back about 1/4" from where I show here after testing. Once you're happy with the hinge, cut the solder so you preserve the hinge pins, and pull them out. Also, pry the tube off with some pliers, and clean up the glue residue. Using the templates, make a copy out of the brass rod for ONE END ONLY. Pliers and strong fingers help here. Now put the tube on the rod BEFORE you bend up the other end. You have no idea how many times I forgot that when I was working on model cars You should now have a complete hinge. Place it on the front bezel and fine tune the shape of the brass hinge pins loops until everything is swinging nice, and the bay sits flush when closed. Don't glue the hinge to the bay cover yet though. When you're happy, glue the tube to the front bezel. Temporarily install the front bezel back on the case to see if you need to remove any metal for the hinge to swing. Use the Dremel to cut slots for clearance. Now, take the bay cover off the hinge to install the latch. THE LATCH: Where did I get my latch? Take a wild guess from the pic. Yup, old monitor, but these things are everywhere! Old VCRs, TV's, scour the surplus and junk stores. Anything with adjustment pots could have this latch, and it should just pop out with a little prying. At worse, you'll have to take the item apart around the latch to get it Try to find one with a decent catch too. Cut out the catch as shown, and grab your bay cover again. Cut a slot in the bottom (sorry for bad pic), and glue the catch flush with the edge. Put the bay cover back on the hinge pins and click the latch onto the catch you just installed. Swing the cover closed and mark where the latch rests. Keep testing so the door will latch and unlatch freely (you may need to take some more material from the cover edges to get enough movement to work the latch), then glue it in place on the front bezel. I needed to recess my latch a bit for a solid mount, and also added a piece of aluminum for more strength. I used hot glue here again, but this would be a good spot for some epoxy if you have it. Done! I painted some black on all the new parts for a cleaner look. Then install the floppy drive so it butts into the back of the latch as shown. The ribs we removed from the cover allow it to flex enough so you can press it at the bottom to work the latch. A little light oil on the hinge and latch, and it should pop all the way open every time. The pins and barrels on the cover should be snug enough to hold it in place, but you can glue it too. Very stealth, still fully functional floppy drive, and watching your freinds' reaction when you show them the "CLICK" as it opens is just classic If anyone has questions, post them here and I'll answer/modify the guide.