I've got a '93 Oldsmobile Cutlass (oh yeah!) that is an automatic (oh no...) and after having the fuel filter and pump replaced my wife ran over a parking brick (once again, oh no). Now every time we come to a stop it dies, and starts perfectly fine, but the second I put it in drive or reverse it dies. Starts perfectly again, and if I put it in netural, revv the engine, and drop it into drive it runs until the next stop sign. My thought is the transmission got beat up a little, so I'm thinking I may need to replace it. If so, I won't be able to sell the car for anything (it has over 160k miles on the odometer, and it has either been rolled back or rolled over) so I'd like to extend my modding skils to my car (woot) So do any of you who actually know stuff about cars know if there are standard transmissions that will fit the car? Keep in mind I'm willing to use a grinder and power tools to change my car as neccessary, and I can get ahold of welding tools if neccessary. I learn fairly quickly, and don't mind getting books and friends around here to help also. Any ideas?
I don't think that it's the tranny that's the problem. Since it's a front-wheel drive car, the trans-axle is mounted above the frame of the car and unless the parking thingy is REAL big, it wouldn't touch it. If she came down hard on the brick, 1st thing I would check is to make damn sure that the oil pan isn't cracked or leaking though. It'll be somewhat unrelated to your problem, but could become a serious problem if it did crack or whatever. I had the exact same problem with an old car that I owned ('86 Delta 88) in which it wouldn't stay running at idle in gear unless I kept the engine revs up. When I got around to fixing it (it was a 2nd car), I found a problem with the ignition controll system - I had a bad ECU. After replacing it, I tuned the car and it was fine. You may also want to check the vacuum lines to make sure that they didn't work loose either. The best suggestion that I could make to you (or anyone with an american car) is to spend the 60 bucks on a quality diagnostics code reader. It plugs into an interface that's located under the dash on the driver's side and will read the engine's DTC's by accessing the onboard computer. The codes will flash on an indicator lamp in a Morse Code type of sequence which you cross reference with a booklet that comes with the reader. It will tell you anything electrical that's wrong with the car - which is what I believe your problem is. As far as your question about tranny crossing, there's a TON of cars that the Cutlass will cross with. That's the cool thing about GM cars, they will cross with different models, years and makes as long as it's an N-Body car. If I remember correctly, N-Body's are... Buick Skylark & Somerset Chevy Malibu Olds Achieva, Alero, Calais & Cutlass Pontiac GrandAm However, the best thing would be to go to a local auto graveyard and ask them to make sure. You will need to know the size of the engine (3.0l, 3.8l, etc) and have the VIN handy. Don't be suprised if you find out that the engine ISN'T an Olds engine! My Delta had a 3.8l Buick engine in it!
Forgot to add that if you are going to replace the transaxle, just a word of caution if you've never done it before... It's NOT an easy thing to do! You have to take more than 1/2 the trive train apart to get it off plus you'll need a transmition lift to get it out and back in again.
if you have access to a lift and air tools... its a hell of a lot easier... as there are some cars that its easier to take the tranny out from the bottom than pulling the whole engine with tranny attached.... generally on front wheel drive cars.... its easier to use a lift... rear wheel driver is nice because you can pull the front body pieces off and take the whole engine & transmission out with a 2ton engine hoist (as I've done numerous times on my ranger, and once on my brother's S10..)
Yea, it would be a TON easier with a lift and air tools. It's been a while since I've screwed around with a Cutlass, but isn't there a cross member of the frame that won't allow you to pull the tranny out from underneath? I seem to recall something like that for some reason.
The frame unbolts!? I've never heard of that! If so, better get out a torch to loosen those suckers! I still think the best thing to do would be to pull the engine and tranny as a whole unit though. That way you can give the engine a good looking over and would be REAL easy to give the engine a good overhaul and replace old gaskets, vaccum lines and give the block and engine comparment a good washing to make sure it runs like new. If you do go this route, drain your oil and pull off your oil pan so you can scoop out the gunk in it and wash that too.
