Cooling What Case for Watercooling?

http://www.asus.com/products/mb/socket939/a8v-d/overview.htm

Ram won't be a hassle - interference was spacewise vs bottom PCI slot

 

Sorry Risky but if you can just tell me what you mean by that. I get that the RAM wont be a issue signal and interfernace wise with the pump, but what you mean by 'spacewise vs bottom PCI slot'

thanks

 

My fault for thinking the other way up. By the bottom slot I suppose I mean the topmost PCI slot in the orientatation of a V1000.

It's probably OK, but the worry is that the rad is taking up space needed by the board itself.

 

That should be fine.

They're not all the same. There is a 1.5mm version also. I think Coolercases' stuff should be the thick walled (=3mm or 1/8") kind but I'm not sure. However Over-clock UK definitely sells the thick-walled stuff.

Signal wise you don't have to worry. The pump motor comes in a metal housing. Spacewise I don't know how wide your case is (or how big the pump), so you'll have to test fit it and see before you whip the Dremel out. Remember that the Corsair RAM modules with the flashy LEDs on them protrude quite a bit, though.

 

Have a look at the pictures in this thread it should give you an ideas how things will fit. If you llok at the pictures with the mobo in place you get an idea how much space there will be at the top of the case for the rad. It's not a lot but I think you might get away with it.

 

Hi,

Thanks for that. I will check the pump to see if it fits and as for RAM i am going to go for the Corsair Po moduals so i will keep in mind what you said.

Also thanks for providing me the link for the tubing.

 

ok the BIX3 will fit without any cutting to the 5 1/4" cage hopefull becuase the width of the RAD is 5.25".

As for the motherboard this should fit but the first PCI slot will be taken up which i dont mind.

 

Looking good, I'll be interested to see this build. AS a bonus you'll have good component cooling for the mobo with those 120mms pulling air over it, don't know how many PCI cards you're putting in, though.

I guess the rear exhaust fan could be an intake in this config, though the case is pretty well vented anyway.

 

Yeh the fans will pull air through the RAD (look at setup on previous page). And im not sure yet how many PCI slot i will use up but i will tell you once i do.

One question is, do you know or nexxo know a website where i can get long Screws 8cm+ or threaded rods for the Fan and Rad setup. If not i will try B&Q and Homebase.

thanks

 

Do you have a B&Q Warehouse near you? They usually ahve a larger selection of fixings than most other DIY stores IME

 

Yes i do. But if anyone knows or have ordered these from a website, if they can please tell me.

But i will go to B&Q Tomorow.

 

The threaded M4 rods (=4mm diameter) came from B&Q. They are mild steel. You can get them at a marine shop in stainless steel which is preferable in some ways, but much harder to cut to size... Although M4 size is the best size, be prepared to have to drill out the holes on the BIX a little, as they are 3mm diameter. This can be done with a bench press drill; just remember not to try and drill all the way through the rad to the opposite mounting hole as you will damage the channels! So drill out the holes carefully, turn over the rad and drill out the other holes. When pushing the rods through the BIX you may bend some of the tiny fins that zig-zag between the channels. This is unavoidable and does not damage the channels or affect performance of the rad.

 

Hi.

Would there be any thinner diameter screws/Rods where i dont have to drill the Rad hole's? If this is the only option by drilling then it will have to do then?

Thanks

 

The holes are 3mm diameter. I don't know whether you can get M3 rods but give it a try. They will still fit through the fans. Remember to have washers under the nuts, which will be smaller than with M4 rods. Also use rubber grommets to stop vibrations of the fans resonating through the case and the rad (or else those new silicone gaskets modding shops sell nowadays will do).

 

Hi.

I found this website: http://www.greenweld.co.uk/acatalog/Shop_Rods_63.html that sells M3 200mm long Rods. Can you tell me if these will be long enough and if they will fit properly through the holes of the RAD and FANS? Also if you know, can you tell me if the RAD and FAN holes are 3mm diameter?

They also sell M4 300mm Rods which are longer but if i get the M3 version ones then it saves the hassle of having to drill out the RAD and FAN holes to widen them. Or is it better to go for the M4 rods insted of the M3 rods?

I will also use washers under the nuts and rubber grommets under the fans and case like you said to prevent vibration.

Also Nexxo if you can help me out on this. You said that mounting the AquaTube in the 2- 5 1/4" bays would be easier which i dont mind but how would i go about filling the system when its done?
Do i disconnect the RES from the 2-5 1/4" bays and hold it upright in my hand, then fill it and then after connect it back to the 2-5 1/4" bays or do i put the case on its back then fill it that way?

Thanks

 

Rod length has to be fan thickness (38mm) plus BIX thickness (45mm) plus case panel thickness (2mm?) plus another 15mm to accomodate gaskets/grommets and nuts at either end, so total is about 103mm per rod.

To fill the reservoir in the front bezel, simply flip the case on its back!

 

Yep. I shall order M3 Rods (They come in 1m Lengths) and will order some nuts and washers and grommets as well.

And thanks for your help on how to fill the RES. But when i empty/drain the system do i just tilt the case on its front and open up the RES Lid?

Thanks for helping

 

You're generally best to have a drain line for this. A T near the lowest point witha a valve ore blanked off tube makes things easy. However this would still require the case tilted so you could open the res upto let the air in.

Thats a bit ofd a pain, so maybe you can have a 'bleed' line off the res as well. Now you need two lines, shut off with valves, one to the roof from the res and one off the bottom of the system. Open both and it will drain away.

In my rig, the tube res is in the roof so I don't need the second line:

Old pic, but it shows ther valve and T:

In the case the fittings rotate, so I can drop the line donn horizontal to drain.

 

Hi,

Wouldnt there be no easier way like without adding shut of vales Etcc.? Something like tilting the case on its front, then opening the cap/lid on the RES?

thanks

 

The catch is that you'd need to have to get it facing flat down before you opened the lid.