Education We Like to Ride Bicycles

I'm after some advice,

I want to get back into cycling and back on the bike after at least 10 years. I appear to have gained some weight in that time and my fitness is pretty much shot. Neither of these things make me particularly happy.

Intended Purpose:

Primarily road cycling for fitness and enjoyment. I guess an out and out race bike would be a bad move. Something designed with more comfort and a more relaxed riding position sounds more appealing.

I've never ridden a bike with a drop bar and find the idea vaguely intimidating for some reason but thats me being daft. Sure it's different but nothing to be put off by really I guess.

Budget

£750 +/- 10% would probably be my upper limit. I'm due a bonus so I can be a little bit flexible if the right bit of kit comes along

Questions:

1) Are carbon forks all they are cracked up to be? In my price range a full carbon frame is out of the question but carbon forks are a possibility. Are they worth it?

2) Having never used disc brakes are they worth the extra cash? Most road bikes don't seem to use or need them but there are a few out there that do.

Can anyone give me some pointers on things to look out for or have any recommendations? My first port of call is to visit my local bike shop for a measure up so I know what frame size to be looking for.

Thanks!

 

Carbon flexes more than alu so technically removes some of the vibration from the ride, I've got both carbon and alu on different bikes are don't really notice much of a difference in vibration. Weight comes into it but the small difference in the two materials isn't that noticeable, and the money better spent on wheels IMO.

Road discs are quite new to the market, I'd avoid them at the moment as there isn't a set standard or size for the axle between all manufacturers, some use quick release, some thru-axle.

On the road discs provide more reliable stopping in wet weather, in dry conditions there isn't much difference. Discs also don't wear out the rims either so the wheel will last longer. I have discs on my commuting bike as it's ridden all year in all weather and I can notice the better braking in heavy rain over my road bike with calliper brakes.

Certainly pop into your local bike shop and sit on both a bike with drops and one with straight bars. See if they can arrange a test ride for you and you'll quickly see if you like the position or not.

Personally I find drops quite comfortable and now find riding straight bars weird.

Once you know if you want drops or straight bars, it'll be easier to recommend a bike for you.

 

I know right? Awesome colour(s). I was originally set on an entirely orange one, but I saw the blue and my mind ticked over a bit and combined the two.

 

Just ordered a new drivetrain for my Slash today, sssshhhhh, don't tell the missus.

1) A carbon fork will flex slightly and have some vibration damping, I'm not totally sold on combining a carbon fork with a disc due to the forced exerted on the caliper mount when braking, though this may be why I'm told that new 2015 road bikes are coming with tiny 140mm rotors.

2) Discs depend on the bikes intended use, as you've said its mainly road then I would say you don't need them and at your budget you're not going to get them on a road bike as standard.

My 2 cents, you've mentioned a relaxed position, in that case don't get a road bike, they have narrow bars and will stretch you out (not as far if you buy a compact though). What you can get is:

1) a fitness style of bike which is a road bike with flat bars giving you similar performance with a more upright position than a road bike like a Giant Rapid.

2) a rigid hybrid, more towards a mountain bike position with smaller gears on the front and larger on the rear for less speed, slightly wider tyres but more flexibility like a Giant Escape (few versions inc Escape City which come rack and mudguard equipped)

3. a standard hybrid, probably a bit heavier as it will have front shocks, more towards a mountain bike style of bike with a wider spread of gears, fatter tyres probably 40mm wide. Look at a Giant Roam.

Of those 3 types, I'd suggest no's 1 or 2 given what you've said, but I wouldn't rule out no 3 as it would give you more possibilities with riding tow paths, waggonways etc. Also I've only suggested Giant as they are something I stock at work and you can use their site to compare all three models and see the differences.

My biggest recommendation would be though, go into a proper bike shop and have a chat, get a sales person to one side with a coffee and a biscuit and start building a relationship up. Then set aside cash from your budget and get the basics that you want (helmet, lights, lock etc) then get the bike with what you have left, but if you can spend bare minimum £500 on the bike.

 

After learning so much last year at UK Bikeskills I went back today for a follow up session. Completely blown away at what I ended up doing as didn't think I was capable of that style of riding.

http://ukbikeskills.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/meddling-with-grahams-skills-again.html

 

Cracking spec bike for the money.
http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/hybrid-bikes/boardman-mx-comp-bike-2014#tab2
Leaving you some cash for accessories.

 

So I did my strava gran fondo yesterday which was great fun. Now thinking I will get the kit as it matches my bike and looks cool. I'm both impressed by how little my muscles hurt and disappointed at how much other bits started to go towards the end. My knees were not happy and I kept trapping a nerve in my hand.

Finally my sora hoods start to ride after a while. Does anyone know if they use better materials on the upgraded versions?

I'm thinking I will do a few more rides of this length going forwards. I love how the British countryside changes so much in such a short distance.



https://www.strava.com/activities/191164629

 

Not a bad ride there. I find the further you go the more your joints are not always happy. But building on the distance is always good.

 

I've ended up getting myself some SPD SL R550's to see if the better pedals hold my feet in a better position than my MTB cleats.

 

I'd love to do a distance like that going straight inland. My first problem is getting home from that distance

 

Use the yellow type SL cleat as they allow for some movement

 

I believe they came with the yellow cleats but I will double check when I get home.

I have a cheat for getting home from Ramsgate in that my parents were driving back from their holiday place that evening, part of the reason I chose that route.

What I would recommend you do for 1 way journeys is to follow a train line either to your car/house or get on the train first. Dad and I do this when we ride from dover to ramsgate. It's actually a really fun way to do a bike ride as you end up with lots of changing scenery.

 

DOUBLE POST OHHH NO!!!

Just wondering what you guys that cycle lots on Strava do for keeping your muscles and body from getting knackered. I find that if I cycle in too many times I just get lethargic after a while. I have ordered some recovery shake to my work so that I can get something to put into the muscles after a workout, hopefully that will help but I was wondering if any of you lot have any other ideas etc.

 

I recommend a pint of "man up"

 

I've tried that. But ever since I got married I find that I'm allergic to it unfortunately.

It brings me out in a bad case of heavy thumbs.

 

Other than manning up, do you know what your cadence is? Ideally you want a cadence of 80 to 100 rpm. You'll find spinning faster means your not grinding a heavier gear and you won't fatigue as quickly.

If you do exercise day in day out it's a good idea to take a week off at some point.

In other news I got thrown from my mountain bike on a steep decent and hit a tree during the weekend. Other than the usual cuts and bruises (Cuts and bruises are what really separates mountain bike riders from roadies), I ended up cracking a rib which is probably the most painful bone i've ever broken.

 

Mate that sucks.

Are you off the bike them? (Rib injuries can be a bit of an ambiguous issue can't they?)

Re cadence I am slightly slow 60-80 at a guess but have been working on that. Will keep at it, I already change gears a lot to accelerate and then tend to slow down once I hit my sort of max/cruising speed of I think 17-22mph.

I find that my lack of cardio strength starts to affect me at higher cadences.

I think part of it is lack of experience and a desire to loose a bit of weight isn't helping so far. Still just passed 1000mlles this year so boom.

 

I am this week, the pain is already subsiding so i'm hoping i'll be able to do a little road riding by then. I just find any sort of jolting movement causes the pain.

I used to have a cadence of about 70. I found the hardest thing to do was to keep reminding myself to pick an easier gear so I could spin faster. You'll be slower than normal at first but one you get into the swing of things you'll start to be quicker.

 

Don't get on the bike too early if it still hurts though. That's how you do permanent damage.

Can we sabotage syd a little bit so I can get a record of the week. He's pulling regular 200+ mile weeks which I just can't keep up with!!!

I upped my cadence last night for my first group ride and it helped me to keep up on the fast parts aka all of the damn ride. So cheers for the good advice.

 

48.3 miles tomorrow morning

I'd like to get close to 3 hours - did 3.39 in training for a 50 mile ride but on an udulating rather than predominantly flat course that tomorrow will bring.