TribalOVERKILL's LiquiD EVOLUTION

God, No! I'd have a thermometer like that with me at all times if I had one...just taking things' temperatures...without permission.
"What? you think that girl has the hots for you, Spock? There's one way to find out!"

 

Just read through, awesome work dude. What can I say that hasn't already been said. Nice work modding the press too. Much respect for a workman who mods/makes his own tools. Looking forward to seeing what fevered inventions your frantic mind spits out next

 

@ Cheapskate - LOL. Im so dumb when it comes to knowing whether a chick has the hots for me. I need one of these thermometers!

@ Moriarty - Thanks dude! There more to come!

 

I DID IT!!!!!!! I successfully rewired BOTH drill presses to run foward and in reverse! It works good too! OMG! I cant wait to tap those end pieces now!!! I will take video of that process so you guy can see the drill press working in forward and reverse. I will post my update tomorrow when I get home from work. I went into great detail in this upcoming update so you guys will have something to follow just in case you want to do the same thing to your drill press. Till then,...

 

I did it! I rewired both drill presses to run forward and in reverse and I only got electrocuted twice! Remember to unplug before you start touching stuff! Oh! And capacitors hold a charge a bit after you unplug them Ouch.

Aug-18-2008

Here's the small drill press all ready to go! I used a 4-way rocker switch. $12.


Switching wires. Your basically looking at 4 extra wires coming out of the motor. The capacitor + and - along with the starter winding + and -. Easy.


Before I get started,... this is a bad tutorial. I didnt take as many pics as I though I did. So bare with me here. First, disconnect your motor completely from all wires.


You might have to remove this spindle thing but in my case I dont have to. I had to for the first one but not this one.


Remove the motor and place on a table just like this one. The table is important.


This motor is a lot bigger than the other motor for my other drill press.


Remove the rods that hold the motor together by removing the rod nuts as shown in the pics.


Put all the nuts back on the rods so you dont lose them.


All except one. Your going to use this one to open the motor.


Your going to stick it back into one of the holes and your going to get the tip of the rod to just miss the rear hole as you see in this pic.


Then your going to stick something into the rear hole like a pencil or something. This will push the rod over away from the holes even more. It will keep the rod from entering the rear hole. Next your going to tap on the rod with a hammer until your see the rear cover start to seperate from the motor. You need to do this EVENLY! Do this for each whole a little bit at a time until the cover comes off.


Becareful when you do this because you might break the rear cover. This cover is very fragile or cheap. The smaller one I did before this was a lot stronger. Just becareful. If the rear cover does not want to come off, you can heat the motor shell up a bit with a propane torch. This will cause the motor shell to expand a bit making it let go of the rear cover some. Take your time.


When you get the cover off you should see something like this. This motor wired just a bit differently then the first one I did. The only difference is that the capacitor is before the centrifugal swtich as oppose to after the centrifugal switch like the last motor. what does that mean? Well, the centrifugal switch kills power to the starter winding once the motor has started and has reached a certain speed. Having the capacitor before the centrifugal switch means the power is being cutting FROM the capacitor to the starter winding. Which is ok because the starter winding is not getting power at that point BUT the capacitor is. The way I see it,.. if you not using it SHUT IT OFF! This is why I want to put the capacitor AFTER the centrifugal switch. The centrifugal switch will kill power the the capacitor which in turn will kill power to the started winding. The way you see it in the pic is not how I want it. I have to switch some wires around. To get the capacitor AFTER the switch I have to run a wire from wire #4 to the centrifugal switch. I need to remove wire #3 from teh centrifugal switch and from the one edn of the starter winding which is behind the pull ties and sleeving you see behind the cover. Wire #2 is fine where it is. Wire #1 is going to go to the starter winding now. Making this change will put the capacitor AFTER the centrifugal swtich. Now wire #1 really isnt going right to the one side of the starter winding, it's going to the 4-way switch. So you will need to run a wire from wire #1 to the outside of the motor so it can go to the 4-way switch.


In here you will find the one side of the starter winding. the side that gets power. You need to run a wire from this side of the starter winding to the outside of the motor. So thats two wires so far that will be going to the 4-way switch. The wire from the capacitor which I call "C+" and the one side of the starter winding that gets power, "SW+". Now i'll show you the last two wires that need to go to the 4-way swtich.


Behind these pull ties are the running winding wires that get power, they are attached to the white wire. You'll also find the running winding wires that are attached to the black negative wire. Lastly,... you will also find the other side of the starter winding. It will be attached to the black negative wire too. The 3rd and 4th wires that have to go outside the motor to the 4-way switch is the other side of the starter winding thats attached to the black negative wire and the black negative wire. This wire is "SW-" You need to attach another wire to the black negative wire so that it can go out to the 4-way switch. This wire is called "C-".


Here's the starter winding wire. It's getting power from this white wire. Most AC motors like this have only ONE starter winding wire. The starter winding is only power for a short time just to get the motor running. Once the motoro is running it loses power.


Here are the running winding wires. AC motors like this can have 2 or more running winding wires. Thelast motor I did only had 2 running winding wires. This motor because it's bigger has 4 running winding wires. The running winding wires is what keeps the motor running. The running winding wires always has power when the motor is on.


ALL of the windings are attached to the black negative wire. You need to find your starter winding wire and remove it from this black negative wire. Reason being because it's going to the 4-way switch.


I removed the starter winding wires from the positive and negative wires. I am goingto attach wires to these and I'm going to run these wires outside the motor to the 4-way swtich. These are teh "SW+" and "SW-" wires.


You can use a multimeter to check for continuity of the starter winding if your not sure you have the right ends.


You need to actually strip the wire bare at the ends because all of the winding wires have a nonconductive coating on them. Use a pair of pliers and grip and pull on the ends. It will strip the end bare. You wont be able to solder to these wires unless you do this. The solder wont stick.


Here im soldering two whites wires to the one side of the running winding. One white wire will go to the power cord. The other white wire is going to the centrifugal switch. Yes,... I can use my little Gentec torch to solder. Thats how small the flame is. LOL.


The wire labeled goign to centrifugal switch is going to be attached where #3 wire is attached in the next pic. #2 wire is staying where it is.


This black wire is attched to the #1 wire in the next pic. This is "C+" and its going to the 4-way switch.


This is "SW+" which is the positive side of the starter winding. It is going to the 4-way switch.


The black wire on the left is "SW-". It is going to the 4-way switch. The black wire on the right is "C-". It is also going to the 4-way switch. This "C-" wire is attached the the motors negative wire which is wire #5 in the next pic,...


so I have all my wires soldered and pull tied out of the way from the rotor. You should have 4 wires exiting the motor. "C+" which is basically the positive wire from the capacitor, "C-" which is the motors negative wire, "SW+" which is the positive wire from the starter winding, and "SW-" fromt eh starter winding. Positive negative,... it doesnt matter with the starter winding because all it is, is a long copper wire wound up. It has two ends. one goes to the positive and one goes the the negative. Doesnt matter.


This is the 4-way switch. Its a rocker switch. Nice. I think its a 110/220 volt 15amp switch which is common for this type of swtich. This is why I looked here first before looking at any other kind of swtich.


This is basically how it works. Flip it to one side and it does this,...


Flip it to the other and it does this. Get it? So perfect for what Im using it for. This was almost to easy! LOL.


So I just have to wire it up and test it. "C+" to "SW+" and "C-" to "SW-". Thats it. It works great!


So time to rig it up for good. Here are the switching wires from the motor. Gave them some extra length just in case.


Made a VERY quick I dont care what it looks like bracket for mounting the switch.


Soldered some wires to those that were coming from the motor. These new wires go to the switch. Make sure you have enough slack to slide the motor back and forth to remove the belts.


All done.


I hope this update helps you guys rewire your presses if your press needs reversing. This is a very sloppy tutorial. I though I took more pics of each step but I guess I didnt. I was to into my work I guess. I think you guys will be fine though. Its easy as hell. Just ask me if you guys need help. I will take some video of it working when I start tapping the end pieces I have. Also,... revver finally approved my last Gentec torch video so here it is:

 

Cover the leads on the switch!!! You're going to be blindly groping for the switch one day and find that your butt is grounded the HARD way.
Trust me on that one. There is a reason I quit wearing watches. I've been jump-started more times than the extras on BayWatch.

 

THAT ROCKSS!!! I love the Video !! AWESOME!

I wanted to ask you can I melt the Alum with the normal fire thing?! what they call it?!

 

Good music in the vid =)

 

*agrees*

I think it's really cool that you took your drill press apart and modded it! =D

@ video: Tribal, you seem to have so much energy, love and enthusiasm for you work/playing... it makes me and very inspired. LMAO @ "..it's still hot.. don't touch it! *touch* Aow! Damn it! That's hot."
XD

 

Thanks guys. I will cover the leads on the swtich cheapskate. Dont worry

 

Quick update! Have to run! I'm having lunch with a girl! A GIRL!!!!!!! OMG! WHAT DO I DO!!!! AHHHHHHHHHH!!! CAN"T BE LATE!!! HAVE TO SHOWER! Deodorant and dont forget to use body spray,... have to smell good. Brush my teeth. Have to scrape out the grease from under my nails,... any pimples on my face?!?! Have to drop down to do 50 pushups,... have to appear buff. OK OK,...I think im ready.

Aug-23-2008(bAR2745r)

I wrapped the leads of the 4-way switches on the drill presses. I used electrical tape. I did it in a way so the the end is caught between teh switch and the bracket so it doesnt come undone. Very clean looking. And safe.


New jig time! A very old peice of Lian-Li aluminum from Blackout.


Some drill time and this is what I got,...


You see the buldge? I could have gotten any closer to the other side without having gone completely through. Perfect.


Some scroll saw time and file time and this is what I got,... nice right? To bad this is not what I needed! DOH!


This is what I needed. LOL.


Hard to explain what this is going to be. Just keep watching.


Cool ehh?


Cool ehh?


You understanding now?


How about now?


And now,...?


This is it for now! I have off tonight. Im going to go back to the studio after lunch. I'm s@#$%^ myself right now. Have to bring some spare panties to change out the ones im wearing for when I s@#$ myself.

 

SWEET! I had a good and bad day at the studio. More bad than good but not thats bad. Check it out,...

Aug-24-2008 (bAR2745r)

Finishing up these discs I started making,... I cut a little groove in each. I tried using the drill press as a milling machine to make this goove but it end up butchering it so I just used a file.


The new base,...


The underside,... nice inset bolts.


These things are dead on,...


Done. As you can see the one has an extra pair of angled things. Thats because I installed the disc to the wrong side. LOL. so I had to add the extra pair so if I have to drill smaller tubes.


This thing is wicked cool.


I use the back of the drill bit that is the same size as the one im drilling with to hold the tube in place for drilling the next hole.


I drilled all four holes in the tube and how I check to see if it accurate is by redrilling the very first hole. If its off the bit wont go right in. It will be off. BUT,....


It's dead on!!!


How cool is that! It works!!!! HA HA HAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!


AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!! YEA!


Time for the the end pieces,... doing the same thing. Making marks on the outer surface of a scrap piece. I remark the first mark to see if its aligned.


You see how it right on top? If it was off it would be to either side.


You see how the lines line up perfectly with the holes in the tube?


I had to make a spacer for the drill jig for the tubes. The center wooden dics you see there. I totlaly forgot about this part. Oh well.


All the tubes drilled.


Heres that test peice fitted with a tube. It's worrks. Kind of. This example worked. But I had trouble with the first end piece. The figgin holes didnt line up! I mean they were like off! I'm thinking that because of the fact that both jigs and some play to them and because of the way they work, that being incremental, that this little bit of play is seriously adding up when I get to the last hole. I haev to figure this out! In the mean time I had to drill the end pieces by means of the tubes. This way I know they will fit. I cant waste all these trying to do something that I might not be able to do seeing that I do not have to right stuff to manufacture. So yea.


All end pieces and tube drilled. Time to open up the port holes.


Im using a modified 11.8mm standard drill bit to make single passes. you know your cutting efficiently when you see this. I think the very ends of the cutting surface of this bit were off a bit becasuse I was getting some tearing when I pass through the other side. Had to pass through slowly. Doesnt really matter because I was going to taper the holes anyways.


Damn thats a lot of drilling! Took me a hot minute to drill all those out. Can you imagine how long it would of took to tap all these holes by hand!!! Thank god for the drill press mod.


I'm going to finish these tomorrow once I get to the studio. I cant wait to tap them. I want to see the drill press in action. I iwll take video of that.


Peace out people. Going to sleep and then im off to work.

 

Tribal is mental....

 

in a good way. He's one step away from turning the tubes in the press too. It might be (IS) dangerous to turn something that big, but think of what you could do.

 

Dude,... this was on my mind. Damn your good. I cant turn cut the tubes with the acrylic. But I am wishing I had a lathe. Because you know I would be turn cutting these tubes. Cutting the tubes with the mitre saw is what I think the problem is. The ends are ever so slightly off. Which makes for the drill of the holes to be holes a bit. Depth wise. I dont know. I have to play arond with it. But the way I see it,... all the jigs are dead on! All holes are exactly 45 degrees so theres no reason for the holes to not line up! I am thinking the drill bit is running the surface. Meaning not drilling where its suppose to. Which means Im going to cut the bit down real short so theres no sway.

 

i already tried to spin tubes with a drill press, well it worked, but i didnt make something crazy like TO ALWAYS does, so yeah, maybe youll need a support on the other end, but it _should_ work

 

Finished. Check em out.

Aug-27-2008

All my holes tapped within minutes! I mean,... i think it took me like 30 - 40 minutes actually. But thats good! Thats 144 holes! It took me days to do this before the drill press mod!


Here's some holes where I just used water and a lube/ coolant. They look ok but I was having a lot of trouble because the acrylic was melting. The tap would cut fine on the down down but when I reversed the pressed to pull the tap out,... it would pull the melts shavings back into the hole and it would mess up the threads a bit.


So thats when I started using this special blade lube. It's kind of like bee's wax if thats not what it is. Just a tiny bit on the tap for every 2 to 3 holes was all it took for the tap to cut nearly clear threads. It not only acted as a lubricant but most importantly it created a non stick surface So when I reversed the press to pull the tap out,... the melted shaving fell off instead of being pull inside. It couldnt stick. OMG I was tapping so fast! I took a video of the whole process. So cool.


Here I was getting ready to clean the tubes up a bit and then seal them. I did run into a problem though. They wouldnt seal with the 1/16" o-rings I originally wanted to use. So I had to modify the caps so that I could use 3/32 o-rings. Whats happened was the area of the end pieces where the oring is ftter was a tiny bit to small. Plus the tubes are out of round a bit. So they wouldnt seal. After modifying the end pieces a bit to fit the larger orings, they sealed fine. I am a bit pissed though that I had to change the original plans. I have to remember this for next time. they came out good though.


These are teh reservoirs completed and ready for sale! I am goign to hold onto them for a while though. I just want to see if anything weird happens. Because in my experience,... everything is fone in the studio until I box it and ship it. So I want to hold on to them for a bit so there are no weird problems. I am tired of the my s@#$ is broken emails. s@#$ should just work! Anyways. So yea.


Here's the drill press video I made:


Hell Glaive is at NVision08. This is the "DayWalker" PC featuring the Hell Glaive reservoir,...
HellGlaive in San Hose California, NVision 08

 

This is a cool update! I did something that I thought I would never do. The idea makes me nervous.

Sep-02-2008

I thought I would give turning cutting tubes a try. The idea along makes me nervous. No reall fancy turning cutting. I just want to be able to cut the tubes to size so the edges are nice and clean looking. Straight too. The largest tube being 7.5". So where to start?!?! How about with a shaft! This is a 5/8" steel shaft I cut from a 5/8" steel rod. I cleaned it up a bit. I knew it had to be thick for strength. Dont want to take any chances.


I also know that I will nee a bearing. To hold the other end of the shaft, keeping it from wobbling during high speed cutting. I cutt this hole using a uni-bit because they make ream like holes. Very smooth.


The other end of the shaft goes into the bearing and the bearing gets clamped the the drill press table. The table is stationary, it doesnt move.


A little bit of bearing grease and we're good to go. I this this puppy cranked all the way up at 3000rpm. It's works great!!! If I did that with out the bearing,... let put it this way, I wouldn't be here typing out this update right now


I'm going to need some disc's on the shaft. Something for the tubes to slide over. The discs will hold the tubes center over the shaft.


I modified a boring bit so that it cuts a diameter very close to the diameter of the shaft. I dont want a lot of slack. Has to be snug.


Snug they are. The OD of the discs are very much larger than the ID of the 2.5" tubing. I show you why in a sec,....


These disc's are going to be kind of like "C" clamps. I think. You'll see what I mean. They will lock onto the shaft by means a bolt.


Done. Now,...


About 3 at a time I will turn cut these while tightly clamped the the shaft until their OD's reach the ID of the tubing. Right now unclamped they are near perfect circles. If I clamp them to the shaft the shape will change. They will no longer bea circle. Because I cant use them while unclamped, I have to clamp them and then reshape them. Understand?


Works so well!!! OMG!!! I need a lathe!!! PLEASE!


Look at that. Awesome!


Done! While clamped,... their shape is a near perfect circle with a OD of something a tiny bit smaller then the ID of the tubing. I decided to go a bit small because I want to be sure that I will be able to fit all 2.5" tube. They have tolerances. I will wrapped the disc's with tape to increase the OD of the discs.


Almost done.


I made a stopping disc. Every tube I slide on this shaft will stop at that disc. I can repeat the same cut over and over and over by means of this disc. So all my tube will have the same length.


I wrapped the discs in tape to increase the OD of the discs so the tubes are snug.


I modified the bearing a bit. I bent it downward and drilled it out again. I did this so I can remove the shaft easily to replace the tube. I loosen the chuck first and then tilt the shaft outward towards the slanted portion of the bearing, then pull out. Works nicely


Now. Here's my problem. I can not pull down on the drill press lever to bring the top of the tube to the lathe bit. SO I need to bring the lathe bit to the top of the tube. Hmmmm,...


Also,... even though I dont think its all that needed. I think I will make another clamp for the outside of the tube. To kind of hold it firm to the discs while turn cutting. The tube is on those discs pretty well but ehhhhh, i dont know. Anyways! Look at it go!!! WHAHOOOOO!!!

 

Amazing work, just amazing.

The reversible drill press = brilliant.

 

Thanks dude! OMG I use the directional switch alot!! Not just for tapping. I use it to open and close the chuck jaws. WhenI have to go from a small bit to a large or vise versa. It's awesome. And I can cut int eh other direction too when turn cutting. Every drill press should have this really