@lilgoth89 https://www.sylmasta.com/product/superglue-debonder/ Might, at least, let you salvage the magnets! I used that stuff a lot when taking FW models apart after learning new things to fill the many, many, gaps. Works rather well on fingers coated in superglue, too.
I recently got complete nostalgia of painting and got the 40K killteam starter set. Looking forward to painting some next week.
Size coparison with the other Projects, my next 2 big purchases, are the Elegoo Saturn ( provided i can get one at Retail and not twice the price from an Ebay Scalper ) and then an Airbrush so i can properly get these boys painted up also see the project on the monitor ^_^ Also potato Camera photo is Potato
Last update for the near future, i am out of Resin, and my IPA BADLY needs a filtering, so im taking a few days off printing Designed and printed some Shin Armour Adapters, as the shin armour mounting is a bit of a PITA, and id like to have the option to swap armour Installed The Angry Boys Still to print for these - Volcano cannon main body, other half of the Shin Armour, might also re-do the Gattling cannons as they are quite old, printed on the old Wanhao, and come from a less accurate, less detailed Model, still they work fine for now.
My project for the weekend was to start on my Space Wolf snowmobile boys, I love/hate the new bikes in equal measure but they just didn't seem to work for me as a Space Wolf vehicle. After quite a few test prints I'm pretty happy with how the rear is looking, it just needs some more detail adding and something to fix where the exhaust was cut. Trying to get the front to look how I want without looking out of place is proving far harder though!
the only issue i have had, is i didnt realise resin shrinks ever so slightly as it cures, and tends to pillow out slightly, so a 10mm hole ends up being about 9.8~ mm so i have to make the holes slightly bigger, at the moment im using a file to make the holes a little bigger, might have to go get the dremel out again. but you live and learn
Yeah, that's bitten me a few times so far. Especially when making things like keying holes and the like. What resin do you use? I'm using anycubic and so far it's all been.. Fine? But kind of brittle, especially the black. I've done some reading, it seems that the Americans mix resins to get a less brittle version, but that is looking like an expensive prospect here in the EU where I'm struggling to find anything like Siraya tech or Monoflex for prices approaching reasonable. I just bought some Liqcreate premium flex to try and add a bit of resilience to the anycubic resins I have, and damn was that expensive. The grey is better than the black, but not by a whole lot.
i use Elegoo Grey, and its been pretty solid, ive also heard good things about their ''ABS like resin'' but its not something i have direct experience with spent the morning replacing the IPA in my baths and... oh boy, the stuff is gunky as all heck in the bottom, the Video i saw recommended leaving them in a windowsill for 6 weeks to half cure the resin in the solution, then i can re-use the IPA once most of the resin is out of it i was also thinking of doing more work to the Chaos armour set, to deform the armour panels to show the Corruption, it was a thought in my head, but i think my Printer can Read my mind also YUM, this is used Isopropyl alcohol im trying to Recycle, i filtered it, and now im leaving it in the window in the spare room for 6 weeks so the UV can hopefully Cure the resin, and leave it on the side of the
looking at the Mass of Resin ive now got sitting on my desk, my inner Mech is coming back out again, and knowing im likely going to be re-printing the Armour for the Warlord, here i am umming and arrring about changing the colour or my Titan Legion, it will be quite dark, and the logo will stay Red but im wondering on a dark colour, maybe blue or purple, even a dark brown. anyone recomendations on colours ? and / or Rattle Can Companies ?
My go-to paint people was always paints4u in the UK (http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=5021 is the custom colour aerosol - but you can email 'em and ask questions, although their paint picker was pretty good if a little finickity). They mix automotive colours, and if you can provide them a colour code they'll make it. The do rattle can paints that're just tops. I've used flat, metallic, two-layer, and chameleon paints from them in rattle can variety, and yeah, not a failure amongst 'em. They aren't super cheap, but they're the best rattle cans I've ever used. The only examples I have to hand; Ford Electric (ASBO) Orange - https://i.imgur.com/P181hBa.jpg Ford Imperial Blue - https://i.imgur.com/gpuLNOx.jpg ASBO is lacquered, Imperial isn't - But both are 100% rattle can, and both were done over an SEM primer. Grey, if memory serves. What's the colour going to be? Like.. Armour panels and the like?
yeah, i want something thats abit brighter and more vivid than the almost black so its impossible to photo blue im using, but still pretty dark, i found a nice dark Purple on Amazon by Kobra, which ive picked up to try out also
Thanks man, if only my painting skills were not awful XD the temptation was REALLY there to burrow the light out, and add a small Led to the titans hull, as im unlikely to be bothering with the interior, there will be plenty of space inside for a battery Also for how expensive the printer is, with the Resin and such, im genuinely surprised that FW doesnt just buy a couple dozen of these or the upgraded versions of mine, digitalise their back catalogue as much as possible, and simply have a person or two to clean / wash the prints as they come out. it would mean nothing ever truly goes OOP, as the files would still exist and can simply be loaded onto a drive and run off the machine, and there are even desktop production line printers getting onto the market in FDM form. it would be an investment but it would save HUGE quantities of time, effort, money, and replacement parts shipping, and the quality of the product goes up pretty dramatically, ( some finishing would still need to be made, but i imagine it would be less of an arse as at least the parts would be straight, and with larger printers they could print in better orientations to hide the small pock marks ) and with the monochromatic printers hitting the market, they would also print around twice as fast as i can ( again saving energy costs ) and apparently with the mono printers the screen lasts ~4x as long, saving even more money in the long run that is a professional level PRINT and paint job..
The one thing that you have to keep in mind with Forgeworld is that it is run by a guy who is very old school when it comes to making the models so still very much of the thinking that masters are sculpted or built and then moulds are made of that. Of course, he may have dragged himself into modernity by now, but he never gave me the impression that would happen when I worked for him.
At least some of the bigger models are 3D designed these days, so there's some potential. TBH, I suspect a lot of FW's job if they switched to 3D printing rather than casting resin would be working out the correct blend of chemicals to make their products have a passably long shelf life - Some of the kits I've bought have yellowed slightly because they've been around so long. I'm not sure what the longevity of un-painted UV printed resins are. That said, I think I'm long past buying much from GW or FW that isn't plastic. I found a nice set of Zone Mortalis walls that I plan to use for the display shelf, rather than buying unknown volumes of the wall packs from GW.
found the cause of the brown dirt that was appearing on my models after they were washed After Scrub anyone know of any paint / lacquer i can apply to this that wont be affected by the IPA / Resin that is used to clean the parts ? normally id just use varnish, but i figure id ask if there is any specific product i need considering the IPA bath it will sit in
Are those magnets? I'm guessing the build plate sticks to those and gets swished around in the cleaning vat? I'd have thought any kind of clear lacquer for cars should work. Detailers wipe cars down with IPA to make sure the thing is clean of various products to no ill effect on the paint. Tbh, I'd try any non-water based paint (Basically anything in a rattle can).
^ they are ineed, its to avoid the cost of having some kind of drive shaft running through the bottom of the Tank, this way they can push it round with magnets, its quite clever i thought about automotive paint, but i wasnt sure if being immersed in IPA 24/7 would degrade the paint, someone suggested some polyurethane sealant spray, so im going to try that, also replacing the magnets, though i dont have any way to find which pole is which, so i purchased a pack of each
