Some thundertusk wip shots... Some bits on this model are so fragile , in hindsight i shouldnt have attached the strings with the skulls on behind the rider until right at the end as its so delicate , and i dont think it will survive the rigors of handling during painting , this model wasn't that difficult to build but theres a lot of very fine joint gaps that need filling - perfect for the liquid green..
Looks very tricky to build indeed. Did they come attached to sprues on the fine bits, or was it all cast separately? I've had many a head-scratching moment trying to de-sprue extremely fine rope bits etc which ended up shearing apart. What do you use for gap-filling? I'd quite like to try the GW'ers preferred method as I find my current stuff extremely tricky to use.
The fine ropy bits are all cast on the main sprues , very tricky to even separate them from the sprues without breaking them , im gonna use liquid green stuff for the filling , hopefully i'll be able to just paint it in to the cracks....
Used my army painter undercoat spray paint tonight , lovely stuff , goes on real nice , good finish, not at all gloopy...
Got given a box of wolves today by my lovely girlfriend today First opinnion is thats ooooooo many bits. 40 Heads in one box, thats lovely
yay I've just started a Necron army got myself a codex 2 squads of warriors and a ghost arch. Wife's bought me an annihilation barge and Trazyn the Infinite for xmas only a month till get them lol.
Stop tempting me, I'm trying to not to buy some new necron stuff untill I've painted up everything that I've already got, Also, my mum will go nuts if I buy more stuff, what with still not having gotten a job yet,
Be careful with the heads - there are about 5 per 10 man box for use with the Scouts box (so you can make Wolf Scouts.) Also, my personal preference for assembly is make them up as Grey Hunters - with bolters, and 2 plasma guns and a power fist per 10 man squad, and Rhino/Drop Pod them into combat.
I've owned one of these for more than 20 years now: http://www.historexagents.com/shop/tips_pyros.php It can take a long time to cut through the sprue attachment points, but it's well worth it, as there is no risk of damaging fine parts with a knife or clippers. Once the parts have been separated they can then be trimmed and filed. EDIT - the Historex pyro is no longer for sale (why?), but you can get them here: http://www.landmproducts.co.uk/70280/info.php?p=4&pno=0
Maybe a daft qestion but does anyone spray undercoat stuff when their still attached to sprues?... got a lot of small bits to go on this stonehorn model and i thought it would be easier to spray undercoat them while they are still attached to the sprues....
I've done all my necrons like that. You just have to touch up the little bits from removing the parts from the sprues. Makes it much easier to get a good undercoat.
I'll play Devil's advocate and say no. It's usually better to completely assemble a figure (or any other model within reason, eg a tank), having sorted out seams, gaps and getting a good bond beforehand. Then your primer/undercoat is truly sealing everything in a uniform way. When I did my last Games Workshop figures (LOTR), I used a can of spray glue to attach a whole batch to a thick piece of card. Then I was able to spray them en masse while minimising wasted paint. With the (many!) AFV models I've built, I've found parts added on afterwards always look like add-ons. Fine if it's something like stowage, but not if it's an itegral part of the model.
Man, I really wish I hadn't have left all my paints at my parents when I moved out (to subsequently be thrown away). This thread is dangerous - it really makes me want to spend a lot of money (those GW paints and bits are hideously expensive these days!).
Hello set of Space Marines, glue, paints & brushes. Bye-bye £60!! But the paints last ages, as do the brushes if they are properly looked after. And Christmas is coming!
I just find it much harder to paint a fully assembled model, especially things like necrons or chaos, where there are parts infront of the main body. But, I also don't do any seam sealing or anything, if there's a gap, then its going to be there always, . Not done any big or vehicle models yet though. Also, when spraying fully assembled models, there always seems to be parts that the spray has somehow missed.
No seamwork? Heresy!! Joking aside, seams are generally pretty easy to eliminate - scrape the seam with the back of your craft knife. It's a technique that's soon picked up. Here's my top time-saving tip. If you have any rough areas to smooth, the proper way to deal with them is to use a file, sanding stick or whatever. But if the area is skin, leather or cloth, then brush liquid glue over the area. My favourite is Humbrol. This is great for blending seams and can also be used to fill small gaps. You'll need to use a proper brush though, and make sure you clean the brush of any melted plastic by dipping it in the liquid glue after you've finished. I seem to have posted a lot on this thread! Sorry gents, I don't mean to be boring, but my interest (which was largely killed off when my two kids were born) is coming back big time now!
I don't tend to remove mould lines from models, because most of them only need to look table top good, rather than competition good. That said, my Red Scorpions are attracting a lot more attention than previous armies - I think it's the increased cost of the FW parts making me work harder >.>
