Discussion in 'Article Discussion' started by bit-tech, 19 Jul 2019.
If you didn't care about taking it apart couldn't you just use 3 layers and laser cut the middle one for the channels and glue it all together? Would actually look more interesting as it wouldn't have any screws!
Love seeing the guides, even for things that i'm 99% certain i'll never actually use.
A tad disappointed though after intially reading it as a 'disco plate'.
Sweet mother of Jebus that is one sexy guide
I think that's how they were used to be done, or at least I've definitely seen that method used.
Alex you have a request...
Or if you are fine with it being opaque:
3D Print it, no o-rings, no screws, no glue and 100% leak proof.
That's what I was hoping for initially. New 3D printer, time to break it in with some extrusion-molded parts.
Not 100% unless its SLS
That's how I used to do it. I had issues with the glue clouding the bottom surface, and had to use an air pump on it to purge the solvent. They make a really thick version of super glue that might work better for the final seal, but I've never tried it.
hi Alex, I have one question in this matter.. is it possible to get a perfect 90 degree for inner corner?
i have just went to someone that provide cnc milling service and show my scratch case design, but he said to achieve perfect inner corner is difficult (or impossible), the best he could get is around radius 1.50
sorry for long reply, i just want to make sure about this but i dont know where to ask.
Perfect 90 degree inner corner doesn't work because cutting bit is round, best you can do is use really small cutting bit to make the roundness of the corner less visible.
Time to bring out the chisels for hand finishing, right?
Nothing is impossible at least for conductive metals. Sinker EDM can achieve square inside corners but it's not exactly practical for most applications for cost reasons. A 1.5mm radius is pretty reasonable as a minimum unless you want to significantly increase production time. Of course smaller is possible. I use 0.5mm diameter endmills for one of our production jobs, but old/worn out or low RPM machines really can't handle something that small and anything more that an 5x diameter depth of cut will get extremely tricky.
Anyways, huge props to you Alex for getting where you are at on your own. You would make a good machinist if you ever needed a new career.
you would have to have a chisel sharp enough to make a serial killer proud and pair at it one sliver at a time, depending on the radius this could be quick and easy or a few days of hell. But no you're not going to get a mortising chisel and chop out a corner like one would do in woodwork and expect it to come out well in material that cracks if you drill it wrong
Some quality time with a square file and maybe some finishing with an ultrasonic knife if it's soft metal.
Depending on geometry (through hole yes, pocket no) you could mill a square corner by coming in sideways with a cutter using a sharp cornered tool or one with sharp cornered inserts (e.g. a side cutter or shell mill).
Separate names with a comma.