Um, not having to go find a screwdriver or keep track of thumbscrews was the main goal. And coming up with a visually interesting mechanism to accomplish that. It really had nothing to do with speed. It does the same thing as the latching mechanisms used on mass manufactured cases, but I think it's more stylish.
um, people don't mod / make cases to save time (or money). Looks cool, expect a knockoff soon. My only concern would be the durabiliity of the rubber bands (most degrade rather rapidly).
The rubber bands are temporary as I needed to test the mechanism. I'll probably use elastic string instead which will be much more durable. Trying to find small enough extension springs was proving difficult.
Not alot going on right now. The past few days have been filled with playing and cleaning. It's seriously premature, but I have begun planning my next project.
Well, I think I've hit a wall on this project that I won't be able to get over until I have outside help. Here's the basics of the problem at hand concerning the Plug-bus circuitry. 1. There is NO WAY I can drill 700 tiny holes accurately using manual methods. 2. I do not know anyone with free access to numerical drilling equipment that would be able to help me get the holes drilled 3. I don't have the funds to pay for a commercial service to do the work (which would involve over $1000 in labor for one set) I have a friend in Sweden who is working on getting his CNC equipment up and running but I'm not sure when he will be finished. If he falls through then I'll have to start setting aside the funds to go with a commercial solution. On a positive note there are very few machining tasks left to do. Basically I just need to machine an intake duct and make the case handles.
How many projects have you done? Can you post links to others that you've done but haven't posted here? Thanks
Captain, it is completly up to you (of course) but I can drill those holes at no cost. I do a lot of my own personal electronic projects and have the tools set up for my meathod drilling those holes. If you have the PCB's already made and just need them drilled, it would only take me a few days if you want to send them to NC and it would only cost you the price of shipping.
A few examples: http://www.captainslug.com/mod.html and http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=93199 I've completed over 30 custom PCs since 2000, but not all of them were documented. That is an awesome offer and I will be taking you up on it. I'll get to work on the etching once I can make a trip to my friend's print shop to get the circuitry templates printed out. I have 13 single-sided 3oz copper boards so I'll be able to send you two sets of boards should you need a spare if you run into any problems.
After looking back at board layouts that you posted, it would be better to have them etched. That way when drilling, I can make sure there is still enough copper around the holes to hold the solder.
Alright. I'm going to start working on the etching tomorrow morning after I visit my friend's printing shop and get the transfers made.
Got the printing for the plug-bus etch done. Radioshack (and all similar stores within a 20 miles of where I live) no longer carries etchant so I'm going to order some tonight. And a goody came in the mail! A 5gpm Rotameter, and it's pretty large (8 inches tall). I'm very familiar with these thanks to my part-time job, and they usually cost $100 to $200 apiece. And measurement ranges useful to watercooling are not typically measured with these, but I managed to find one on eBay for $30. It will be going in the loop inbetween the radiator and the pump inlet. What's great about using this kind of flowmeter is that it will have almost NO effect on the flowrate because it offers very little restriction. It's also really unique looking and for some reason I just love anything analogue. The only downside is that it only works oriented one way since it relies upon gravity. But should I need to invert the motherboard I would also have to rearrange where the radiator is so it's not very likely that I will do so without making a number of other changes to the loop at that point in time.
Just as a suggestion, after you transfer those to the PCB, you might want to fill in those larger hole with permenant marker so that when you etch it, that whole pad will still have copper. That way when I drill it, you still have a solid pad to solder to.
And so begins the first of the knock-off products : http://www.bit-tech.net/news/2007/01/09/ultra_shows_off_carbon_fibre_case/ Not that I care though.
Ultra's never going to make it even as half as good as your case mate and they are doing this in a whole factory,dont bother.