Scratch Build – In Progress Pressure.Can by ATL

Hi Guys,

Started my first ever scratch build a couple of months ago and I thought I will share it with you.
I found this big metal box thing(according to google a spray can filler) next to my workplace and it came to me that it would make a great PC case. Had all sort of ideas how to go, some of them had to ditch, some of them had to change and the end is still far away. Started working on it back in August, but had very little time to actually do anything with it. Also have to work in my garage, where I don't have electricity, heating or lights so things are sometimes a bit difficult. Also my selection of tools are limited and my skillset is questionable

If you expecting some juicy hardware orgy, I have to disappoint, unfortunately it's a zero budget project and currently only have some old recycled parts from friends to go in it. Maybe if it's finished I'll put my current PC inside, but that a rather old rig as well.
Here are a couple of pictures of the original unit, and I will update later some of the progress I made so far.
Hope you enjoy as much as I do, it keeps me busy in the lockdown

 

Hi, welcome here. You're in the right place for advices.

Recycling is what I prefer.

Hardware no really matter here but construction YES. And you always can upgrade later if necessary.

Using simple tools make stuff more hard and needs more time to realise them, but it still work !

Good luck in your projet.

 

1/8" rivets, so you need 4-40 screws and nuts to make the front base accessible. Square nuts + epoxy is your best option.
I'd ditch the bulky door latch and cut out a bigger window. The door can be fastened with magnets.
The sides aren't plate metal, right? I was thinking it was double folded at first.

Skill set starter pack:
Drill metal with a block of wood underneath so you don't bend it. If it's really thin, clamp wood on top to, because the drill bit can pull / twist the metal.
Never rough cut exactly on your lines. Cut inside them and sand/file to straight.

 

First I cleaned off all the paint splatter from the case. It's all thick stainless steel so the case is quiet rigid and heavy and eats drill bits lie there is no tomorrow


Managed to borrow a jigsaw from a friend and cut the back of the case. Used one of the old office cases as a donor for motherboard tray and the back I/O panel.

Originally I was planning to place an ssd in the front, but later that changed as well as I needed more space for a power button(still haven't found the perfect one) and want to put a couple of analogue gauges on the front panel too.
One thing I was always certain that I wanted watercooling in it, with the reservoir visible from the front window. I never dealt with watercooling and didn't want to spend money on it so I finally settled a cheap Chinese kit, which took about a month to arrive. Still haven't tested it though
In the meantime I managed to get an old Corsair case for a couple of quid, which gave me a better quality mobo tray, but it means I have to redo the cut out on the back, as it's a bit higher and the holes need re-drilling too for mounting. Also got some spacers so I don't have to use nuts to lift them higher. Also decided to use the screwless hard drive case for the drives and found a place for it on the top part.

Thanks for the feedbacks, really appreciated. I have roughly one more post to bring you up to speed with the current state.

 

I see great potential for a mahoosive passive heatsink build. Just saying.

 

It's sounds good

 

If are not already using it get a HSS-Co drill bit, the Cobalt treated drill bit won't be eaten by the inox steel and it doesn't cost a fortune.

 

^Yeah. Woodworking bits will die instantly on stainless. You need some proper metalworking bits and and use oil on the cut. -Not wd40, oil.

You didn't need the motherboard tray, except as a template for what to cut and drill. If you need motherboard spacers, clear Bic Pen bodies are my favorite.
-Local ghetto build expert.

Also, The community has a lot of resources.

 

I'm using HSS bits, but tend to snap them in half before they go blunt:/
Originally I tried to skip the mobo tray and drill holes and make a thread in them, but after breaking 2 tap and die sets, I gave up that option.(the base is even thicker steel than the side panels. Also it gives a nice frame for the i/o panel and the cards at the back.
I admit, I tried to use WD40, but as it didn't make any difference I gave up on it. Just trying to do it slowly and keeping the bits cool and not pushing it as I normally would

I have two new gauges for the front, but not sure if I will use both. Originally there was an air pressure gauge and thinking if I can use it with the water cooling loop. But I'm not sure it would show anything, and where would be the best to connect. The other one will definitely a temp gauge, with the sensor in the reservoir. But I also have to figure out how to cut a 52mm hole for it.

 

So back in October managed to get some electricity from a neighbor for a couple of hours and cut out the place where the PSU will be and the radiator on the side. Angle grinder worked like a charm, with a metal blade it was way much easier than jigsaw. Also the lines were much better, almost could call it straight

Got a perforated stainless sheet, where the rad can breath, but it needed welding. Found a guy who said can do it for me, but took him a month and a half to actually do about 8 spots around....


As I said, decided to use the drive bay from a corsair case and found a good spot just above where I was planning to put the PSU.

Also got a metal bar to support it from the other side, drilled holes in it and threaded them for easy fixing. Then last week I realized that in this state you couldn't take the drives out, because the case has a fold where the door is.
Luckily the other side where the bar sat had enough as space and the bay can work upside down as well.

This week got a perspex sheet which will be between the drives/psu and the radiator and reservoir. I went for fluorescent green as the liquid will be the same color. As I didn't plan and measure things properly the original plan to attach the reservoir to the perspex had to change as it would touch the rad, so it will go on the back where it fits perfectly.


So now you're up to date and updates will be less frequent. Hopefully next week can do some more work on it though
There are a bunch of jobs left, mainly the front panel needs working. Have to figure out how to cut it out properly as want to have a front panel with usbs and headphone jacks, but the one I have is angled on the side so have to source another one. Also the square holes gonna be interesting () might have to just drill and file....
and still need a pretty power switch. want to have a toggle switch, but can't find any which is big enough, need with over 20mm cut out diameter.

 

HSS vs HSS-CO is night and day on hard metals like inox steel, you spend less by buying one good HSS-CO than breaking a lot of HSS bits.

With an HSS-CO you can drill with faster RPM and it should not grab the metal that you are drilling, especially if you use oil, use vaseline oil if you don't have another oil to use.

If the metal bends during the drilling phase it will probably wrap the drill bit until one of two snaps, make a sacrificial sandwich with wood blocks so when you drill you don't deform the metal dragging it with you instead of drilling it.

And yes for the square holes drill and files works well.

 

You can rough out curved corners in your cuts pretty well with an angle grinder. It does take a light touch, though.
You have plexiglas... You screwed up. Now you have to replace the ghetto drive bay and motherboard tray with it.
Switch for big hole: You can cover the hole with plexi and use a smaller switch. It's more work, but potentially could look better.

 

And even if your impatient to finish your build, take your time to think, and take your time to do. Don't try to go to fast
Do it well !
Trust me, I broke too many tools too

 

What's wrong with the drive bay It needs a good clean, maybe a lick of paint and good as new ;

 

Not really a progress, but finally the weather is better so I won't freeze in the garage.
I took the time today and tidyed-up so this week should see some actual work done.
Got a cordless angle grinder to do some final cuts around the motherboard tray.
Found the front i/o ports that I will use and maybe even a possible solution for the power switch.
Question: do I need a separate filling port somewhere on the top? Also I guess a drain valve would be handy...

 

Great find , repurposing weird industrial enclosures is always a bit of fresh air in the modding scene, IMO...whatever hardware you fit in, I bet you will have followers, including me

 

So after a week of being off sick, today finally got some work done.

Finished the PSU fixings. Will have to fill up one hole where I overrun with the grinder. I will try to use some solder, it should be okay to cover, but might have issues to heat up enough to stick.


Also got the place for the reservoir and fixed the hdd bay in it's final place. I'm not sure if I will use rivets or screws at the end as it would look better with rivets but gives more flexibility with screws.



Also realized that as I changed the motherboard tray halfway through, i will have to drill new holes for it and the back panel is a bit higher so will need to cut off more from the back.
Got the front IO panel, but now I'm not sure if I want to put it on the front on the bottom part, or higher up on the case on the side. The front would look better, but higher is more practical :/
While I was home I started learning CAD to design some parts just thinking of a couple of simple bits from perspex if I can find a cheap manufacturer locally.
That's it for the day, hopefully will get on with some more very soon

 

You might be able to find a maker space nearby for that.

 

A bit more progress! Two days in a row! That's a miracle
So managed to do the motherboard tray, fixed it with some screws and decent spacers.

The backplate got some holes and rivets for fixing.

Now it all fits nicely inside.

As mentioned it's a bit different then the original one, so next job is to cut the hole again, need an extra 2 cm on top, then 3 holes to drill and it's all done

 

I was actually looking at those, probably more cost effective there is one not that far, but due to covid that's at least 2-3 months...