I will explain on Mr. Red's behalf How I do it: First freshen up the solder to it melts easier. Do this by actualy adding a little solder to each pin. (This saves time and risk in the end) Sheild the area surrounding the PCI slot with heat resistant tape. (If you don't have this then alluminum tape or foil will work, but is more risky) Mount your motherboard with the PCI slot facing down, and room below it. Then attach several locking pliers to the slot. (For weight) On the back side use a heatgun (Or for more risk, a mini-torch) and heat up the solder points in a even fashion until the slot falls through. (You should see the solder get shinny just before it turns molten) I have done this a few times with both PCI and Dimm sockets. (DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!)
Appologies. I thought I posted this pic already! There is a slight interference rolling thought the screen, but when playing Battlefield, I don't notice. I could live with it, but I may try shielding some of the components and see if that stops it. All-in-all I am surprised it worked at all! As far as the PCI Slots, one of the rework techs at worked helped me with a solder pot. Plato Solder Pot I have used Zap's method to remove some of the other connectors. Thermal resistive tape is VERY helpful! Like he said this is very risky. When we did my board, it got so hot that it made the board curve up a bit. While it was still hot, we held it down on a flat surface. It cooled strait again and it tested fine!
Once I have everything cut and placed I plan to see what an oil or stain will look like. I might end up making one more case rev with better wood or plexi, not sure though. I just moved to a new place, so no work will get done untill I get everthing unpacked; however, I hope to have this done by Christmas. Don't want to turn it into a New Year's resolution!
Part 5 Continued.... Welp, doesnt look like I will get this finished as soon as I would like to. I am having trouble finding a latch that will work and look good. Here is the only thing I have found so far that works. Check it out and let me know what you think: Not sure about the look, but the function is great. As a bonus they are prettly low profile.
Believe me Mr. Red has been searching for proper latches that will fit forever. (Dremel the others you got, I am telling you)
This might help in the latch department: http://www.reliablehardware.com/pdf/Handles_Latches.pdf You could go with a drawbolt easily enough but, check out the smaller (2392,2301,2499) butterfly latches.
You callin my case cheap? Just kidding. That was the comment I was looking for. I think the same thing, but I have been fighting this for like 2 weeks, so i was trying to be lazy and get something that just works. You would think out of all the craft sores around I could find a decent latch! Thanks for the link Beginner. While I decided not to use any of the ones listed on their sight, but it did get me some more search terms! (their websight order form was also a bit scary) I found some to order from Votaw Tool Company. Since I am desperate, I orderd 6 different types to try; however the most promising right now is this one: Molded Case Latch It is a latch for a music case. I am keeping my fingers crossed. This would given me the low profile i want on the bottom. Yeah, were not going to talk to much about those! (there were bolt latches) Thanks for the tips guys! Stupid latches......
Votaw Tool No way! Too funny. Originally I was going to send the Votaw Tool link. Not only that but the 'moulded case latch' specifically. Then I decided that the comprehensiveness of the Reliablehardware pdf. might be more helpful (in a round about way I guess it was). Well, good luck and good modding!
Nice alternative to a laptop , and very nicely done! Maybe you can call this a tree-top? (Woodtop would be more correct , but that kinda destroys the pun... )!
So if it is a tree top pc... Are you a branch manager??? What sort of finish are you going to give it??? Are you gonna do like pollux? Looks great though!
What would look nice would be if you cut into the fram a little at the sides, then used some sliding brushed aluminum or gold plated latched (if cherry wood dye is used). Seen this on humidors, and it'll look kickass.
Don't get all bent out of shape! You can even use strips of vaneer(SP?) to cover the ply endcuts. also see if you can direct some air to go under the mainboard... might help wit the warping heat.
Part 5 Continued.....Again..... I got the latches in and I decided to use the molded case latch. Here is what it turnd out like. I like the way these look. The best thing, is that i still have a very low profile catch on the bottom. this keeps the keyboard area clear. And better still, No more ropes to keep the lid closed during transport!
LOL You guys are killin me! Still gots lots to do! It looks like I am going to have to redo the case one more time. As many latches as I have tried, there are lots o holes on the front now. Also, the wood is chipping in places. I am going to try to find some solid wood to redo, but first I have some more placement and cutting to do (might as well expierement with what I got before starting agian). Still not sure about final case; however, after a bit more cutting i will stain this one to see what it looks like. BTW... if you look at my last pics, they are not as good as normal.... Thats because the camera that I usually use got stollen....along with my power tools..... Damn people broke into my house that I am renting. Left my computers, but took my cable mode, so I have limited internet access. Also no insurance, so this is a pretty big setback and will delay things even more.
