Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by invalid, 7 Mar 2005.
I agree with that
bling bling you need chrome edging for that window though... to max out the chrome
I worked a small bit on the chrome wire hider for the top fan and the cathode I will be installing in the top of the case. I really loved the look of orac3 but didn't want anything as overkill. So I decided on one hose.
I started with a normal shower hose and painted it metallic blue. Then I sanded the outer layer off so that only the inner parts were blue. Works great to get away from the pure chrome and add a bit of color.
Next I drilled a hole where I wanted it and placed the fitting in it with a rubber outline to hide the edges.
The other side looks like this
Next I attached the hose itself and screwed it on.
Later I will fish the wires through here and hide the inverter and such next to the hard drives in the bottom area.
If that hose is made of conductive metal, I'd take extra care to make sure it doesn't accidentally rub against my motherboard :x
Very very nice project
Oops. Never thought of that. How do I find out if its conductive? Its normal shower hose. Of course, how it will be routed it won't be near the mobo but still want to find out. Thanks for bringing it up!
Stick an ohmmeter on it somewhere I suppose, just any two outside points. If you get a reading that's really low then it's conductive.
Looking good, although I can't understand for the life of me why people use two handles on their mods. It's easy enough to pick up just about any case two-handed whether or not it has handles. But, to each his own.
In a shop just down the road from us you can buy Plastic type Shower hose, it looks as though its made from Metal but its not.. A much safer way ..
Painting the hose like you have done I think is a great idea , on my Mod I was going to use shower hose but didint like the crome look all over but you painting has given me ideas.. Thx...
Once you get it in the shape you want it to be, you can put a varnish or something on it to protect the motherboard...
Note: Bending it after varnishing would probably cause the joints to 'crack' up and the varnish might kind of powder up, if you know what I mean (Take some paint, put it on a piece of flexible plastic, bend it.. and watch it crack up and stuff)
Varnish might also help it have a glossier effect on top of stopping the conductivity... You might also be able to find some kind of 'rubber paint' ...dunno Good luck though
Oh BTW, if I recall correctly, Aluminum is not (very) conductive.. So you may be able to find an aluminum shower hose or similiar... I'm guessing the one you have is (stainless?) steel.
Edit: I was just told that aluminum does conduct electricity, though not very well.. it still might be able to bridge a connection that you don't want to be bridged and make bad things happen. I suggest clear-coating it - Whatever way you choose, just make sure you test it (VU Meter 4TW)
Thanks guys. I am going to grab a volt meter from work and test it tomorrow. When I saw orac3 i saw all those stainless steel hoses and he never mentioned an issue, so dumb me never thought there could be one.
I agree. There are many things that people do that I do not understand either. But for me, it is all about a look I was going for. The handles fit the look I was going for so I used them. More so than for their use.
Ohh for gods sake lad, you're destroying the case! I can compare it to install neon in a Mercedes or an Audi...
Lian Li is about style, not cheesyness....
I'd be afraid of either the top of my case buldging from carrying it somewhere (metal bending) or the top completely breaking off from the rest of my case, and my components going bye-bye... I'd rather have one of those case-straps or carry it hug-style
Where did you bye that? I really fell in love with it
I cant see it at http://www.mnpctech.com/ if thats where it came from?
Clean case, resonable price
Actually I like the look/idea of that little mini-handle thing too. I'd figure it would be better suited at the top of the side panels knowing how v-series panels open. DO tell!
/edit - never mind, with how you're going to attach the doors that location makes sense.
Your work so far is excellent. and I like your choice of computer case! (I have one as well)..I seem to be having some sort of problem loading your pictures (hitting reload current page via FireFox takes care of it)..
Google for "Marine Ring pull Handles," my local hardware store sells them for $10 a piece (although I've found some for like $4 a piece at other HW stores) so you might want to ask them if they sell them.
I think, that this smilie says it all
I got that from here: http://www.allaboutboating.com
Do a search for "SMALL FLUSH LIFTING RING".
Correct mine is latched at the bottom because of the lifts I am putting in. I am installing a hydrolic lift for the door so it will open itself up. =)
Thanks all for the comments.
Thanks for the comment! I don't have a problem loading the pictures. Does anyone else have this problem? I am on firefox as well.
Update time: Window Installed
Sorry for lack of updates here. Been really busy with work and some design work for a client. But I found a couple hours today to do the window.
I ordered a custom cut piece of acrylic from delviesplastic and one from Mountainmods. Delvies came first so I used that. (I tend to buy two of things just in case I muck up the first attempt)
First I measured the spots for all the screws.
This window was always to be installed on the outside as I wanted it to have a slight lift. So I layed the plastic on the frame to mark where to make the same holes on the side itself
To get the raise I simply installed window molding on the inside and then on the screws I added a small rubber washer to each. Here is the final result.
I am very happy with how it turned out because it is exactly as I had planned.
Separate names with a comma.