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Other [Resolved?] Trying to get new build to start and now also broke current comp

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by oscy, 27 Oct 2014.

  1. oscy

    oscy Well-Known Member

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    How will I know if they're bent? On the CPU or on where it goes? Will I be able to definitely tell if they're bent?
     
  2. Corky42

    Corky42 Where's walle?

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    Sorry for not read everything, bit rushed.
    But has resetting the BIOS been tried ? Removing the CMOS battery.

    Is it giving any beep codes ?
     
  3. oscy

    oscy Well-Known Member

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    All no. I'll try starting it without the battery as I've just reseated the cpu cooler.

    Ok it did the same... then I took out the battery... And it started up! Nothing came on my screen though and no beeps.
     
    Last edited: 28 Oct 2014
  4. bawjaws

    bawjaws Well-Known Member

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    You'll only hear beeps if you have a speaker connected to the motherboard. Most cases seem to lack them these days.

    If you leave the CMOS battery out for a few minutes, then put it back in (the right way round, of course) and try powering up, what happens?
     
  5. oscy

    oscy Well-Known Member

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    It powers up like it did without the battery: cooler fan and psu fan keep going, though no signal through my HDMI.
     
  6. bawjaws

    bawjaws Well-Known Member

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    Ok, we're getting there!

    Have you got any RAM installed at the moment? If not, try with one of the sticks and see if you get anything on your monitor.
     
  7. oscy

    oscy Well-Known Member

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    Here are the results with a stick of RAM.

    Battery in, HDMI = turns on for a split second (the original problem)

    Battery out, HDMI = turns on, no signal

    Battery in, VGA = turns on, no signal

    Battery out, VGA turns on for a split second (original problem)

    BTW should I turn it off by the plug or by the PSU switch? It keeps running when I remove the bridge.
     
  8. Kronos

    Kronos Well-Known Member

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    Have you got a GPU connected or are you using onboard?
     
  9. bawjaws

    bawjaws Well-Known Member

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    I think you can bridge it again to switch off, but if that doesn't work then just use the power switch on the PSU.

    Is your list there correct? Do you mean that it only powers up when the CMOS battery is removed for both VGA and HDMI? Otherwise, your list looks a little weird.

    Have you tried the same stick of RAM in the other three RAM slots, and have you tried the other stick of RAM in each slot separately?
     
  10. oscy

    oscy Well-Known Member

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    No GPU connected, it's just the CPU, cooler, PSU via 24 pin and 4 pin, VGA or HDMI, and battery where applicable.
     
  11. jinq-sea

    jinq-sea 'write that down in your copy book' Super Moderator

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    How long have you left the CMOS battery out for? Also, I would urge you to double-double check the CPU socket for bent pins.
     
  12. oscy

    oscy Well-Known Member

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    It does look weird. I've tested again with HDMI in:

    battery out - split-second start problem

    battery in - runs, no signal

    battery in with other stick of RAM instead - split-second start problem

    battery out with other stick of RAM instead - runs, no signal

    So not any better. I should note that on 'battery in, other stick of RAM, split-second start', when I moved the screwdriver around, it would start up for a split-second again.

    Also, I've noticed when it runs continuously, the first it stops after a few seconds, then it starts up again and doesn't stop. I though it might've been me disconnecting the bridge accidentally, but it keeps happening, and when I disconnect the bridge when it's running continuously it keeps running anyway.
     
  13. oscy

    oscy Well-Known Member

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    I've looked a few times, on both the CPU and the socket (I guess I was supposed to just look at the socket). Unless bent pins aren't obvious to see, there are no bent pins.
     
  14. oscy

    oscy Well-Known Member

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    Further tests with a different monitor, via VGA, one stick of RAM:

    battery out: split-second start problem

    battery in: PSU runs continuous, but cooler fan does not start

    With no vga or hdmi:

    battery in: split-second start, cooler fan not running

    battery out: continuous start, cooler fan not running.

    The cooler fan has stopped running for some reason.
     
  15. oscy

    oscy Well-Known Member

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    Ominous silence, and since trying a bit more has made the situation worse, given now the cooler doesn't work (making experimentation even more dangerous I assume now there's no way for the CPU to lose heat), I'm going to take it to a shop or individual. Also, I don't have the spare motherboard, processor, RAM or anything to test anyway.

    As for my current computer I also broke with experimentation, I don't know what I can do for that myself. I've plugged the exact same things back in after unplugging them. Maybe not the exact same specific individual connector (PSU is non-modular), but the same type. Surely that doesn't matter.
     
  16. bulldogjeff

    bulldogjeff The modding head is firmly back on.

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    Where abouts are you. You have said about taking it into a shop. But this lot on here are a pretty friendly helpful bunch, so maybe one of the lads will help out
     
  17. oscy

    oscy Well-Known Member

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    I'm in Oxfordshire, just north of Oxford. I've put up a Wanted thread in the marketplace to see if there's anyone.
     
  18. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    Hi Oscar, I just noticed today what kind of trouble you are in.
    Before I sent the mobo to you it was running Celeron with onboard gpu, so even without resetting BIOS it should pick up onboard gpu straight away. It was set to auto for graphics.

    I would do one more thing - would you be able to run everything outside the case?
    Maybe you're getting some electrical short there?
    It could be case touching mobo somewhere, maybe rear I/O panel shield, maybe something plugged in to USB.

    Would you be able to take it all out on your desk, put your mobo on its box (best is to lay something non-conductive under it) plug in PSU, CPU, RAM, no HDD, no keyboard or mouse or anything in USB plugged in, then vga cable to it and start it like that?

    Also, I noticed you said there is a gap between 24pin cable and mobo socket - there shouldn't be any gap - do not push it all the way with full force, but please check if that middle "closing clip" on the psu plug is "clicking" and closing with middle bumpy bit on mobo 24pin socket.

    Is it full 24pin cable or 20+4 pin? If double plug, is it correctly joined?

    Also - 4 pin cpu cable - does it sit correctly? I'm not sure if either of 4 pin plugs work or should it be specific one of them?

    Does RAM sits fully in their slots? Did they "click" when pushed down?

    Can you check the gap between mobo and case-mobo tray? I know it sounds funny, but sometimes people leave a little screw under that touches both and makes short. That is why I would try to run it all outside the case.

    Friend had similar problem and he noticed that when he unplugged 4pin cpu cable it ran ok only to get in BIOS. WHen plugged 4 pin cable again it started to turn off again. It was faulty PSU. But here I'm assuming your PSU is fine...

    I also wonder why your current PC doesn't work now... What exactly did you do with it? Step by step..
    Maybe static discharge? Is this your first PC build on your own? I'm not gonna ask if you used wrist band to ground yourself etc...
     
    Last edited: 28 Oct 2014
  19. oscy

    oscy Well-Known Member

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    I've tried it outside the case with the setup you describe. First I tried it with just the CPU, cooler, PSU and battery in. Once I took the battery out, it ran continuously (the PSU fan and the cooler fan). I put the battery in and it worked still. After that, it behaved erratically. Sometimes it would run continuously, sometimes it would just start for a split second, whether the battery was in or out, the RAM in or out, using a VGA cable, HDMI or no monitor. Then the cooler fan stopped working at all, and after a few more tries, that's when I stopped.

    I got the 24pin in without a gap, but it didn't make a difference. I have the motherboard and PSU connected by one 24pin same as the socket, as well as the 4-pin to the CPU which clicks in easily.

    The RAMs do click and pop out fine as well.

    I started my build by adding the processor then the cooler. Then after screwing in the standoffs and putting in the backplate, I put the board on them, lined up the holes and screw in the screws into the standoffs until I felt good resistance, so not too tight. Then I added in all the other parts with the PSU and its connectors going in last. Kept myself grounded at all times too, had the anti-static wristband on even at times when I probably didn't need to wear it.
     
  20. oscy

    oscy Well-Known Member

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    Update: spazmochad came round and tried his utmost. It appears to be the motherboard being completely crazy. The PSU, RAM, processor etc. run fine. Just need to buy another motherboard to confirm this completely.

    Also my current computer starts now, I hadn't connected it back properly.
     

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