Thanks everybody for the positive remarks on the mod. Makes a modder feel good. I got my cards on ebay. Search "AGP riser". I'm not exactly sure what gauge the wire was. I bought it from radoishack a year ago. It was the thinest solid hook up wire they had. I'd guess about 16 gauge. They were originally about 3.5" or 9cm. After I soldered one side of the wires into the card that goes into the motherboard, I bunched them together in about the shape they would be soldered to the other board and did some triming down to about 3" or 7.5cm for one of the center wires. I was thinking of making another one just for a backup or distant future mod. I could take a bunch of pictures for a guide if you guys are interested. You guys are probably right. I probably could have interweaved (over and under) a tin foil sheet through each of the 31 wire for all 4 layers that way I could have more or less shield all the wires. Too late now. I'm not touching it now unless it stops working.
First of all congrats on a mod well done.. Believe in yourself brotha! hehe Secondly, If you do decide to make another one as a "back up" try using stranded wire instead. It'll help tremendously in your flexibility problems, and you won't really loose anything by using it instead of solid. As long as it is the same size of wire. Again. Great job!
keep in mind that all the signals are DC. so EMI is not as crucial since the field sizes are not changing constantly and inducing voltage into the other wires. The only problem I see with it, would be from other sources, but that would only really apply if the card was near the PSU. Great job man.
wow congrats man! I'm having problems soldering up 15 pins on my video cards analogue d-sub connector, let alone 124 pins
That would solve the problem. So there is no real difference in resistance for a stranded wire over a solid wire since they both have same amount of surface area to conduct. Makes sense.
correct. Do a test for yourself. Take a one foot piece of 16 ga. solid and a one foot piece of 16 ga. stranded and put your ohm meter on them and there will be very little difference (if any) between the two.
dude, you see those holes on the corners of the card next to that mobo tray looking thing (grey primer color thing aside the gfx card) looks to me like you could fabricate some L brackets using some thin aluminum and nut\bolt them to the things... or make some kind of thing to slide the side of the back of the card into, and a bracket for the side with the VGA thing, like L-----|= Lbracket,gfxcard,bracket,VGA adapter. so the card would rest\nut+bolt into the L bracket on the left side there using those holes, and mount onto the mobo tray prolly using some kind of rivet, then on the other side, you would cut a hole in a pice of metal and slide the VGA connector thru it, and use the VGA connector to connect the card to the bracket, and the bracket to the mobotray via rivets, and that makes two good sturdy sides for your solution =) i hope that made sense good luck man. i didnt doubt ya when i read it. i figured itd work, but be like 1% worse or somthing. know what i mean =). hope my 2cents came in handy.
As for guessing why it works: Maybe spread spectrum modulation has somthing to do with it. I think I missed this in the post, but are the wires solid, or stranded? How think is the insulations? Distancing the wires from each other is a very good way to stop crosstalk With the gaps between the wires, and thick insulation, you may get enough distance that things are happy. The wire's guage may also be helping things too. Or we can clak it up to dumb luck and FM
yet another reason why people should go 'give it a shot' instead of 'it cant possibly work, forget about it'... i wonder how many things like this havent happened due to one person saying it wont work; makes you think
And the signals are digital, they can take a bit of EMI before messing up, definetly mroe EMI than is given from the other cables. I'd only shield it if you had lots of problems, which you didn't. By the way - I very much like your case. Are those speakers Tang Band? What LCD is that?
I didn't completely secure the other side cause it would interfere with how I have the Lexan/keyboard mounted. I was more concerned about fatigue failure in wires if the adapter was allowed to move around alot so the mounting was designed around that. I was probably being paranoid, but it's better to be safe than sorry.
The wires are solid. I guess the insulation is about 0.5mm or 1/64" thick. I don't have a micrometer so it's hard to tell.
You are correct. They are TANG BAND W2-880S 2" SHIELDED DRIVERs. The LCD is a PLanar PL150 stripped down. Dell had a pretty good deal on these before christmas and they have pretty good specs for a 15" LCD.
It is a regular LCD monitor. You just have to dremel off some steel at the bottom of the monitor to make it look like I have it. I'm a Tang Band lover now too. I originally picked them cause they fit the speaker specs and they were small enough to fit in the case. I was amazed at the quality of sound for these extended range drivers.
I would love to see a big pic of your soldering work station. Must be one hell of a good one to do that tedious work so accuratly. also what solder did you use ? This mod should be re-done in the project logs giving step-by-step instructions. Would be really cool
