Scratch Build – In Progress Project: Enigma Reborn (5/26) Rad Grill design, more forth coming

Several of us have had problems with J. B. Weld when used alone. It appears that a good backing is needed for strength. Check my G5 log and Angel's log for examples and work arounds. I am layering another piece behind mine for strength.
John

 

Hum.. i checked out your work log and i see what you're saying, i also checked out Cyprio's log at: http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=125218&pp=20&highlight=apple&page=4

And i see what you mean about the backing, my only problem is that i don't have anything to add to the strength of the bond..

i was thinking about fabbing out some small L brackets to put at the top, middle and bottom of the curve on each side plate, but not sure how that would work too...
Like so:

I'll see how it turned out tomorrow when i get home from work.. JB-Weld does seem a little touchy though.

I guess that's why this is a work log and why we share To learn.

Thanks for the responses

-Tolk

 

No problem! Always willing to share.
While I'm sharing, I'll share this. Congrats on the MOTM nomination
John

 

Congrats on the MOTM nomination! Good luck, man.

 

So, i headed out to the garage all giddy hoping for the best....

Epic Failure #2.....

Just picking it up and that whole piece just popped off. Doesn't look like JB is gonna weld it for me

So, like all good modders, i moved on to something else so as to let my mind get off of the conundrum that is
the curved pieces for now. So i went on to building the box for the top half of the case.
I grabbed me some scrap alum like so.. (sorry for the blurry pic)

Taped it up, and drew out the outline of the door while it was attached (much clearer):


Then i got to thinking.. damn it.. I need to finish attaching the other door before i can build the top pump box,
because it depends on getting the curves right, and measuring out the perfect distance between the doors.

So i drop that for the time being, and went to working on the other door.
I cut out the two 8"x2" pieces needed for the bracket system, marked out the holes, and drilled away.
You'll notice the two notches taken out of the bottom of one of the pieces, that is so that it can fit
over the rivet holes on the bottom of the case. (it doesn't interfere with the ones on the top):

Next i grabbed the hinges and mounted those up, nice and straight

Here's the bracket closed:

So i grabbed the box and mounted the bracket on the inside of the case,
and hit a few pop rivets to keep it in place...

Lined it up for perfection, making note of the clearance on the back to be exactly .20" from the middle mark.
So that it will match up perfectly with the other side door.

Drilled out the bracket holes, and popped a few rivets in it to hold it.
And bam! Door installed!

Not to pretty yet, but soon as i sand it down and do the finished filling it'll look sweet.


Well, that's all i have for today...
Hopefully I'll be able to hit up the top pump box tomorrow and get that hammered out.

Have a great night!

-Tolk

 

Thanks guys, really means a lot

-Tolk

 

Been trying to think of how to ask this, just wondering if anyone had any ideas...

I'm looking for a motor that can pull up a chain, or small steel wire with about 10lbs of weight on the end of it.

I've been at a loss, bought a few small hobby size motors but nothing seems to work. Anyone have any links or "go here" suggestions for me?

Much appreciated,

-Tolk

 

About the epic failure: how about soldering the joint? *copying and pasting*

About the motors: Doh! Now I regret I didn't retrieve a few of those electric motors from the trash container at my job (trainee). Those where about fist size and would probably have done the job easy with the right gear ratio. I could have sent you one for free (+shipping)... that is, if the shipping wouldn't be more than getting a new one. <=)

Speaking of gear ratio, have you tried different ratios? How fast does it have to pull on the wire? I mean, a weaker motor could pull 10lbs if you let it take it's time, but I'm guessing you're not aiming for snail pace. <=)
Hmm... if you have the room, or can live with external mechanisms, you could construct a system that uses a longer leverage arm to lift what ever you are lifting (may I guess?). =)

I've said it before, and I'll say it again: Scratch builds ROCK! ..and this one is really cool one! Keep up the great work!

 

What did I tell you? I knew you would be in the running! Congrats!!

 

Holy crud that stuff is awesome! I might be getting a crap ton of this stuff....

That's just incredible.. Thanks for the link man!!

-Tolk

 

You're welcome! I'm glad I could help! ^_^

 

YO YO!

Time for another update!
Just wanted to say thanks to all the people that helped me out with links and ideas
for getting me moving again.

Well, first i needed to measure out some distances and clearance issues with the two doors
attached. But i looked around and my shop was A MESS!

So i cleaned up


I added some screws to the wall, so that i could hang my clamps and other items that i use regularly.
It makes a big difference when you're in a groove and you don't have to go searching for an item/tool.

So, after that i grabbed an old case and used it to set my new case on, so as not to bend my doors to heck.

Lookin rather sharp
Here's a few more shots for ya..


Ok, enough showin off the case BACK TO WORK!

Ok... so after spending today at work... (IE: playin with schetchup and not working)
I figured out a way, to get what i want, and still get what i need at the same time.

I have 3 radiators up on the top shelf of this computer, those radiators are going to need access into the top pump/rez box via the tubes.
So either way i have to cut away some of the aluminum that is in the curve that i've been trying to make. So to ease this process,
and simplify the way i was doing things i made each section separate. It adds to the strength of each curve, and allows me to make
cuts in the aluminum that i wasn't going to be able to do with 1 solid piece across the whole top of the case.

So i grabbed the original plate, cleaned up off all the JB-Crap...er i mean Weld off of it. and measured out a 5.1" section, then added .4" to each end for the tabs
Here's the cut piece.

Here's that piece with the tabs cut out on each side, and filed down.

Now for the bending brake

and a really nice bend!

And the other side done and looking good.


NOTE: DRILL HOLES IN TABS BEFORE BENDING THEM!!! It was a PITA to drill these holes, but i did it. LOL



Next i grabbed my curved piece and did a little hand bending. (FYI: the small the piece, the easier to bend! how convenient eh?)


Then i Checked the curve out next to my side plate, and a VERY close match, here's a few pics of that process. (sorry bout some of them being blurry)


Next i drilled out the top hole on the side plate, and riveted in the piece. (damn blurry pics!!!)

You'll notice that i have to trim off the bottom tab and about .05" of the alum, weird how it fit perfectly as a whole piece,
but cut it smaller and add tabs and it grows on ya?


Well, that's all i have for today, hope you enjoyed!

Man this thing is getting even more and more fun the further along i get into it!

See ya tomorrow!

-Tolk

 

great bend and anwsome case of corse
canb only imagine how hard it is to get such a result

 

Heya tolk, nice start.

I was wondering, will that concept support all the weight?

 

*no thread-jack intended*

thank you for that info/link M_t_B ..........awesome stuff .......
I found the offical Durafix Shop here in Germany that sells it and
I'm going to be ordering that stuff soon............




Alan

 

Yeah it should, i have an engineering friend of mine helping me out with stuff
The center of gravity is more towords the front of the case, so the arches have a lot of weight on them, and they'll
be supported very well

LOL Not a prob at all man, i was when i saw that too.. I have an email out about
how it reacts to being painted over, so when i get a response (if it's favorable) I'll be ordering
a big pack of that stuff

-Tolk

 

Ok.. wow, just wow. I sent an email bout oh.. i donno a few hours ago,
on a Sunday night, to this Dura-fix guy about his brazing rods.
And I just got a response when I came back in to update for everyone.

This was his response:

PHIL,

THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST IN DURA-FIX.
YES, YOU CAN PRIMER AND PAINT THE FINISHED WELDS MADE WITH OUR RODS.
NO, IT WILL NOT RUST. ONLY MAGNETIC METALS RUST. NON-MAGNETIC METALS WILL OXIDIZE., IF LEFT OUT IN THE WEATHER. EVEN IN AN OUT DOOR ENVIRONMENT THE ONLY THING YOU WILL NOTICE IS A SLIGHT DARKENING OF THE WELD. NO CHANGE AT ALL IF KEPT INDOORS. NO CHANGE AT ALL OUT DOORS IF PAINTED.

THANKS AGAIN, RANDY WEEKS

How awesome is that? I'm so ordering some of these.
I'll update when i get them and test them a few times to see how they work.


Well, on to the update!

I did some good solid work tonight, although it might not look like a lot.

First off I apologize, I started taking pic's mid-build cause i got so involved i forgot

Here's me cutting some of the excess off of this piece i already bent in 2 other places...


After the cut, I set my bending brake up again.
A little tip for ya: To help with lining everything up, tape down your piece to the brake so everything lines up.
that way when you're adding the top bar, and the clamps it doesn't move around on ya. Much easier!


Grr, had this really sweet setup shot done but because it's so dark out the flash makes it look all weird.
So I only have these to finished products to show ya... Once again, my camera work isn't the bestest



I cleaned up the edges and lined everything up... and added some groves on the back of the angle to allow for clearance over the
bends from the back plate. Keep in mind it's not actually attached to the case yet, so it may look a little off, but for what i wanted it's perfect, and the clearances are right on. So I'm VERY happy about that

Looks SWEET if you ask me To each his own though. I hated the idea of having these huge hinges ugly up the inside, so these Hides work perfect!

And they look great too

Anyways, another update in the books!

Hope everyone had a great weekend!!

-Tolk

 

That's awesome..... very fast response .......great to hear that it can be painted.
I sent an order out this morning.


Alan

 

Good point Yemerich.

@Tolk: will you make a welded steel structure to hold it up, and/or will you have some support beams under the main compartment?
The updates look great. I love that hinge cover! How will you fasten it btw?

@theAlien & Tolk: Now that sure was rapid response from durafix! Cool that you both are ordering the stuff. It's going to be very interesting to see what you make with it!! 8D I've only done some tests so far with a similar product (Alutite).

A few words of advice:
Practice several times on some scraps of similar thickness and the same material before you have a go on the real parts!! Alu doesn't get visibly red, like steel, when heated close to melting point, and the risk of overheating it so it deforms/melt is great if you're not cautious. What I found when doing my tests with a butane burner (which gets up to ~1300°C (2372°F))...
(this one (click to zoom)):

...is that when the bounce off flames get a slight orange tint then you have enough heat.
Don't get too cocky like I did either, unless you do have mad skills. <=) After I had done a few successful tests I thought, "This is _easy_!" and lost focus on how much heat I was applying, suddenly w/o warning the alu pieces went limp noodle on me. Don't let this happen with your nicely cut out and bent alu parts!
As master Yoda would have put it: "Beware of the dark side! Arrogance.. straying of mind.. overheating. The dark side of the Farenheit are they. Easily they flow, quick to join you in a frying!"

Stay focused and mod on!

 

A note on oxidation. http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-oxidation.htm

Btw, this is coming along nicely.