Scratch Build – In Progress C&C tiberium wars Advanced flame tank

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by diecyde, 11 May 2010.

  1. PureSilver

    PureSilver E-tailer Tailor

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    Just out of interest - why sand cast that particular piece? It looks like it would have been easier to just mill it out of billet aluminium as it's not a hugely complex shape. Great work, anyway!
     
  2. diecyde

    diecyde What's a Dremel?

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    I find round shapes the hardest to create, and especially recreate the same thing once again (just like the other)
    rather hard.
    If I had a CNC router I would probably have done it that way.
    But I needed 2 identical caps and for me sand casting was the simplest way to achieve a good result then.
     
  3. ASPHIAX

    ASPHIAX Minimodder

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    There is nothing, absolutely nothing compared to this!
    It makes me proud that this is coming from a fellow countryman!
    I would walk from Eindhoven to Amsterdam to see this baby in action ...
    Keep Up The Brilliant Work
     
  4. diecyde

    diecyde What's a Dremel?

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    I would do the same to see your mod when its done ;)
     
  5. kelmannen

    kelmannen What's a Dremel?

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    this is SO sick! =D and you have a good taste for tools =D
    <---- sells industrial tools for a living (ae. metabo, makita) =)
     
  6. Samaya

    Samaya Lion Country

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    I am very impressed with your mod. It is fantastic.
     
  7. diecyde

    diecyde What's a Dremel?

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    Thank you so very much,

    I am currently translating another update.
    Hope to post it soon!
     
  8. diecyde

    diecyde What's a Dremel?

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    Some components arrived, now preparing to solder the PCB's

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    Surface-mount electronics? Now you're just showing off.:D
     
  10. riekmaharg2

    riekmaharg2 has completed the PowerCore scratch build

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    That looks like you've got alot of solder ahead :)
     
  11. diecyde

    diecyde What's a Dremel?

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    Yes, especially the MLF packages take a long time because I don't have solder paste and a reflow oven.
     
  12. Samaya

    Samaya Lion Country

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    With MLF packages I usually place them first. I "tin" the pads and use a heatgun to flow the solder to the pins. But this only works when you have nothing else placed otherwise the other components tend to fly off...
     
  13. diecyde

    diecyde What's a Dremel?

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    I sometimes use kapton tape to protect other small devices from my heat gun.
     
  14. GCOFIELDD

    GCOFIELDD Minimodder

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    In the past, for dual sided boards, I have used two different solder pastes that melt at different temperatures, that way the components don't fall off one side while your melting the solder past on the other. I used a toaster oven...worked very well. Solder past is easy to get also.

    I like your ambition, but do you have a friend who could help you with the welding?
     
  15. diecyde

    diecyde What's a Dremel?

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    It is a part of my job description, thus I should be able to do it :p
     
  16. GCOFIELDD

    GCOFIELDD Minimodder

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    That must be a crazy job description becuase you are doing a lot of stuff:thumb:
     
  17. diecyde

    diecyde What's a Dremel?

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    I am an Electrical engineer and (embedded) software programmer for my work.
    I also am an linux developer.
     
  18. diecyde

    diecyde What's a Dremel?

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    I have soldered and tested 2 PCB's up till now:

    The bluetooth pcb and the main controller board pcb.

    [​IMG]
    First I warm the pcb up to a temperature of around 130 degrees celcius, after that I bring the hot air soldering iron close to the chip for about a minute (till the chip solders itself to the pcb.
    Naturally I use some no-clean flux, this makes the solder flow better.

    [​IMG]
    an indication of MLF technology (this is an 20 eurocent coin)
    First I attach solder to the chip and after that I relow it to the pcb, I let gravity to the hard work for me.

    [​IMG]
    Also here I am warming the PCB before reflowing.

    [​IMG]
    This is the main controller board, tested and ready.

    [​IMG]
    There are also components on the bottom side.

    [​IMG]
    And a closeup of the bluetooth PCB
     
  19. alain-s

    alain-s Minimodder

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    nicely done really
     
  20. diecyde

    diecyde What's a Dremel?

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    The PS3 power supply is done and all works in the first try.
    Up till now I only found one small design error (this was easely corrected bij removing a small wire).

    Below You can see the bottom, the diodes and mosfets stick out significant.
    [​IMG]

    And here the top part, This PCB is completely self sufficient.
    But I still added a small processor with I2c bus, this controller monitors the power usage of the PS3 and can shutdown and start it up when needed.
    Also the main controller board can do these actions through this controller.
    [​IMG]

    I have tested the stability of the design from 8-24V with 0-2.5 Amps, no problems have been found.
    The signal is and stays perfectly stable with hardly any ripple.
    (I can't go higher then 2.5A with my LAB power supply)
    [​IMG]

    Picture of the ripple at 10V, 0Ampere measurement range: 20mV per decade, frequency of the pcb is now 389KHZ and the average ripple is 0.054V Peak to Peak.
    [​IMG]

    Picture of the ripple at 10V, 2Ampere measurement range: 50mV per decade, frequency of the pcb is now 397KHZ and the average ripple is 0.148V Peak to Peak.
    [​IMG]
     

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