Very nice, But I can see that you've ran into the problem I have. Because of the radiator, theres no room for the top 92mm rear intake fan. About the clearence issue of the radiator and motherboard, might I suggest either Yate Loon D12SL-12C (120mm, 21dBa) - Slim, as they are 5mm slimmer than standard. 20mm vs. 25mm. Or the Scythe Slip Stream Slim 2000 rpm ( 120x120x12mm ) only 12mm deep.
No there is no issue, i am replacing the back panel with a clean one There isn't an issue with clearance between the radiator and the motherboard, it is just quite tight. I already have the fans and it fits fine Thanks for the advice though. Although the Scythe Slip Streams are awful fans±
It's all good then... I haven't tried the Slip Streams, but i can recommend the Yate Loon's. Nice, quit and they start fine at 5 volts. But the standard 25mm suits your build, so its not a problem.....Damn I'm rambling....Must be tired.
Update #11 - 19/04/2010 Here is the MIPs RAM Cooler that I have shown before. Take off the black acetal tops and we are left with this. It is a very clever design made up of 4 bits. The metal plate is very simple, whilst the intricate machining is all in the acetal. These arrived today! MIPs offered to make me some custom white tops. This is, as far as i know, the only set in the world! It is a pretty dam cool design! The acetal walls are very thing - less than 1mm. Little bit of deburring needed on the threads. They have made the insides just as attractive as the outside! Here is the largest acetal part installed. Only thing i'm wondering is, why couldn't it be made out of a single block of acetal? Now i just need some RAM for it! Can't wait to get it installed
Nice photo's! I like the contrast in the white tops and the black sealing. I guess these are 3 parts because of material loss. You would have to mill a lot extra to get the same product..
Thanks! Yeah that is most likely why. I like the look of the screws anyway, breaks up the white a bit!
Update #12 - 21/04/2010 Some acrylic arrived so I started working on the side window. I'm not a huge fan of the stock one - how it sits infront of the opening. So I laser cut a large ring and a middle bit. A hint on what is happening - the middle bit sits lower than the ring inside the opening. After I glued the ring to the middle bit, I ended up with this. The middle is about 2mm higher than the outer ring. Then when you flip it over, you get this! The window is perfectly level with the face of the side panel. Was a bit of a gamble as to whether my hurried measurements of the window opening would be correct when it came to laser cutting. Fortunately this time i was lucky! Very pleased with the look! I then used a sharpie to mark out the holes for mounting it. And with the plastic removed! VERY pleased with the look! You may notice a few screws missing in the corner. I managed to make the ring slightly too small so there is no acrylic to screw into under those particular holes. Will have to sort something out. You can actually see through it a bit, quite hard to photograph though. And now here is the new false floor! I finally perfected my laminate application technique. I got a large piece of acrylic rod and put a strip of double sided tape on it. Then i got the laminate still with its backing on and rolled it onto the rod, sticking it on with the good side touching the double sided tape. I then stuck the acrylic sheet to the table. Then i peeled the beginning of the backing paper off and stuck the end of laminate to the table just infront of the piece of acrylic. Finally, i rolled the rod down the acrylic sheet pushing down hard and pulling the paper off as it moved forward. No bubbles! I like how it is at the same height as the window. And finally a little sneak peak of the illuminated floor! It looks quite dim there due to the smoked acrylic window. I'm not entirely pleased with the floor at the moment. It needs some work. The light is slightly pinky when i put the acrylic over it for some reason. I have a couple of ideas though so bear with me
Hello Oliver ! A little question about the EL Panel, which is "slightly pink". Did you managed to find why it's pink ? [Maybe because of the composition and the optical caracteristics of your panel's acrylic...] And, another question : I had a look on Ealsmann's website, and did not find if there was another color than white (using vynil leaves might change the color of the light... I dunno...). Thanks for your answers. By the way, It's time to tell you : Aaaaaaweesome mod boy
It turns pink when you put something on it that isn't clear. If u put clear acrylic on it, the acrylic can be touching and it wont go pink. If you then put a piece of white paper on top of the acrylic the light then goes a bit pink. Same with the laminate on it. What is interesting is if you elevate the acrylic about 4cm above the panel, it is perfect and gives very even, very perfect illumination. Unfortunately, don't have 4cm to play with! Yeah you can only get white, but you can put coloured filters on it (like the stuff u use in theatre lights to change the colour). Thanks
Thanks a lot for the answer I'll buy a leag one day, to make test with my own eyes (and if I love it, maybe my mod will be totally pink, like a panther). Yeah. And the things used in theatre (also in photography) are called "gelatine". Which is not the same thing as "gello" (but, if you want, you can taste a leaf of gelatine... that's your stomach you play with, not mine )
I like it. The fade around the edges gives it a softer look. It's an effect I wish someone would play with more. ...tick tick tick... I like the idea of using something like this to cast intricate shadows. A featureless white case that showed off a fancy inner framework when lit would be cool.
The fading doesn't bother me too much, what really bothers me is that it seems to be uneven, and also it the light is pink! Definately NOT part of my colour scheme! Thanks Ta
Everyone loves work you are doing, so why were there no stars? C'mon people! I've just remedied that oversight...
