It does multiple things as it has multiple cutting bits. I mainly use my cabled one for rounding edges over using a round over bit, trim wood to the right width using the flush trim bit with roller bearing guide and making grooves using the straight router bit that allows for things like tongue and groove and plywood sections to be slotted in. It does many other things too obviously.
At this level it'll be handheld, you can get a multitude of bits for them to apply any edge design you like on the, erm, edges of your chosen woodworking project. They either follow a pre-set template that you glue / pin to the work or have a bearing that runs along and follows the edge. I'd love one, but I hate woodwork with a passion, so it'd be mostly wasted in my hands. A selection of bits, but the list can be endless
Perhaps someone could confirm for me whether this Ryobi Impact Driver with a claimed maximum torque of 400Nm will actually undo a 55mm nut set to a torque of around 230Nm? I can see the figures seem to add up but it seems a lot of ask for a relatively small tool. Are the any downsides of using this kind of impact driver? I've only ever seen the air powered ones in use.
I don't fancy your chances, that's a beefy nut and probably hasn't been off in years which never helps. Whatever it is, I reckon you're going to be needing a long breaker bar to undo it. Edit: I should say this is based on my experiences of working on cars with large and small impacts.
Imagine a drill, but you cut with the edge of the spinner rather than the point. Run the edge of the spinning bit along the edge of wood and it allows you to cut shapes into edges.
Likely no, I have one an I would use a breaker bar on a bolt of that size, once its moving then yes zip it out with an impact gun.
Makes you wonder how they made all these dovetail joints, fine edgework and so on before powered routers. I guess it was all done with chisels and hammers? In a slightly parallel case, I've taken up tree surgery and a chap I was working with observed in passing - as I was swinging a chainsaw about and making short work of huge logs - that it all used to be done with axes and bow saws. That was the only way to fell and crosscut timber. Imagining how long that would've taken was quite humbling.
I'm planning on buying a Ducati and was planning ahead in case I had to remove the back wheel to fix/replace a tyre. Front wheel is 30mm so should be OK with that.
You'll probably be torquing it to spec. to put it back on so just get the right socket, a breaker bar and torque wrench, then have your Mrs sit on it and hold the brakes? Otherwise, I have the big DeWalt 18v impact and it really puts a smile on my face when it just rags things off
They ain't that easy. It came up last month on a motorcycling forum I frequent; I found similar on my Speed Triple and whilst I got mine off with a breaker & scaffold bar combo I did have to jam something solid between the wheel and swinging arm.
Interesting, if scaffolding pipe isn't working then there's something going on. It would take an industrial impact to best that. Working on the Land Rover the most I've had to do is bounce up and down on a breaker bar
Hub nut on my old car was a 32mm torque spec was 220nm, 24" breaker bar an some heat then bash said breaker bar with a large mallet, that or stand on the thing
We used these kind of guns when I was doing HGV work, you will come off https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637197524/1sq-drive-air-impact-wrench-straight---long-anvil
Yeah, they're over-torqued to buggery at the factory would be my guess, and to be fair it's only that one nut and one bit of bent wire keeping the wheel on, and unlike cars if it comes off it's going to be a realllllly bad day. As if my coincidence he bought the 400nm Ryobi, have asked if it worked for him here https://revtothelimit.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=183009#p183009
I think I'll get a Ryobi 400Nm Impact Drive and this Sealey Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B08BWXC9WM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ANH45PUXIIJCJ&psc=1
