Aww ... Nice picture of the dog, but somebody really should point out to you ... the internet is really for posting cat pictures. (Anyway, either the artist is very good at making the subject sit still, or it's maybe from a photograph?)
Yes it's from a photograph but my sister has improvised the back ground. I think the photograph was taken in a cornfield IRC.
I think that one of those "upright bipedal multi-purpose units" is the single most helpful tool in my box Also, as impressive as the gate is, I really like those steps - very creative. I've now learnt something else today! I've got a handlebar and set of mountain bike rims that have rusted slightly, so I'm going to borrow your brass wire technique and see if I can't rejuvenate them somewhat. Do you reckon I can spray paint over after treating them with any of the above (not WD, of course) and setting aside for a while, or not worth bothering with the oil? Just use the brass wire trick on the tin! I did the opposite to you guys during the early part of the year and pulled a fence down, then turned it into veg planters for the kids to grow stuff in. I can't figure out how to add the pics easily though, sadly - process seems to have changed on here... Anyway, I'm glad I found this thread - most informative. The reason I was searching for something like this is I had a question - does anyone have a recommendation for a nailgun? Electric is fine, would prefer it to be able to use a variety of nail sizes (if such a thing is even possible), up to about 40/50mm, mainly for general wood hobby work but with the ability to tack featheredge to arris rails, should it be required. Don't want to go mad with cost as it'll probably only be used now and again - looking more for convenience. Thanks in advance!
Soon to be doing some DIY when (feels like if at the moment!) I move, aiming to make a deadlift platform for the garage. Rough plan being a couple of sheets of 9/11/18mm OSB, and then some plywood/rubber matting on top. Had planned on basically just wood gluing the wood together, or would people recommend nails/screws or whatnot? However I think the prices for timber seem to have shot up? As I swear last time I checked rough costs it was going to be under £100 but now looking more like double that....
Was speaking to the local woodsman last week and he says the same - prices are through the roof since pandemic. Apparently partly end customer-driven ie. people doing renovations since not going on holiday, people turning their hands to crafts etc. but also partly commerce-driven ie. tradesmen inflating prices to recoup lost earnings, which they can afford to do since the "backlog " (at least round here) is so large, people are paying silly money just to have work done quickly. He also said a lot of the timber comes from Canada via China, oddly. Many of the Canadian timber towns have shut down and the workflow now is to float the logs out to huge boats at sea, where everything is processed, finished, treated etc. onboard with a reduced staffing requirement, then repackaged and shipped off to China where much of it is then exported (some back to Canada!). Seems incredibly roundabout and a bit left-hand/right-hand but no surprise these days.
Its all a bit dull, so I have some runs of twin slot shelving, Above the eventual top of this will be runs of it an the wall mounts come down a bit far so I had to space the board slightly to take it. No vise on this, though I could put some mounting holes in to take a few tools I have some threaded inserts I could put in. I have an older steel No.3 machine vise or wheel truing stand.
Ooh, so your sisters an artist. That is cool, the fact that she actually did something nice for her brother is even better. She paints, you make nice frames to show off the paintings - you may be onto a winner there.
Yeh she's the painter, self taught and only started a couple of years back. That painting is my daughter's and she did another one of my daughter's favourite guinea pig who died last year. There's one of my kids in Cornwall too, all from photographs I've taken. Received_546713816398671 by CrapBag posted 14 Sep 2021 at 10:13
Yeah, you definitely can't paint straight onto any of these rust inhibitors, because they coat the metal in an oily film - excluding moisture and air, but usually causing dirt and dust to adhere slightly. The layer would just mix with the paint and it'd all glob off. Brass brushing would be good before painting, but I'd also follow it up with three additional steps, based on my (limited) experience so far. Brass brushing leaves metal and dirt particles all over the surface, so air blast or alcohol clean it down (white spirit, rubbing alcohol, etc.) Then the rusted surfaces will be totally free and exposed. At this point, if you just leave it, it rusts again even faster than before, because it's primed. Since you never really remove all the rust, I'd then use a rust neutralizer like Kurust. There are many different brands of these, but the important thing is they're chemical agents that actually stop the rusting oxidation reaction, leaving an inert surface that won't rust again for a while. Once that's done and nicely dried off, I'd alcohol clean it again. THEN paint it. This should all avoid the near-universal result in amateur paint-over-rust jobs (including my own early attempts) where, under the paint, the rust is still chemically active, and tiny amounts of moisture will eventually infiltrate below the paint (no matter how well painted it is) and the rusting will recommence. And because it's under the paintwork, it'll be even longer before it tears through and you see the extent of it. This is why old cars etc. that have been DIY restored are such a minefield: you don't know if the restorer properly killed the rust, or just brushed it off and painted over it. A mechanic acquaintance of mine once "sorted" my motorbike downpipes in this way - brushed it back, painted over it. I was thrilled, for about two months. Then all the rust just came right through again, because he hadn't neutralized it first.
Cheers dude - nice one! I'll let you know how I get on (and if I can work out how to upload pictures, those will follow). EDIT: Kurust on order ; does it matter whether or not brass or steel brushes are used?
Yes, steel is very hard and scores most metals. Brass is very soft, soft enough to not scratch most surfaces. I got duped by some of those stupid brass-coated steel wire brushes initially, made a horrible mess. It needs to be pure brass. You often find both sold in packs together, I think because people use them to prep wood surfaces for treating or polishing. Like different grades of sandpaper maybe, first steel, then brass. Both scratch into wood, but brass does so very gently, so apparently it's good to get a smooth open surface for oil to soak into. Don't quote me on any of that tho, I haven't done any wood treatment using wire brushes yet.
Started to remove tiles from the en-suite walls to start the renovation process, only to realise that it's going to be a bigger job than I though - builders just used bog-standard plasterboard, didn't seal it properly and no form of damp membrane underneath. The existing plasterboard was about as strong as a soggy tea-soaked digestive biscuit Looks like I'm going to have to replace all the plasterboard in the shower area - but at least it means I get the chance to do it properly and using proper waterproof plasterboards
I'm redoing mine with tile backer board, specifically Jackoboard. The old shower was plasterboard, with tile and then it had been overlaid with marble. It could have withstood an atomic bomb.
@Flibblebot - Late to the game... Yes! replace the drywall with hardyplank/tile backer. 50% of my repair headaches are tile on drywall tubs. I had to rebuild the entire corner of a house because of a shower built that way.
Morning all! Hope it's brighter where you are than it is here...even the fish are sheltering. Thanks to some good progress, I'm now just waiting for a clearer day so I can venture out and finish the half-done projects covering the patio, but am going round in circles on the nailgun topic. Would anybody be able to advise on the above?
I've been down this route, if you're looking to buy the cheapest and most versatile way is to get a compressor and air operated nailgun. You'll need to be aware of the different angles that nails are collated at and their availability in certain sizes, which pretty much means buying multiple guns, with a compressor this works out cheaper still. If you're mainly looking at fencing you can get a 34° framing nailer with the option to firing 50 - 90mm nails, but you could also get a coil nailer that will do the likes of 32 - 64mm nails. If you want a battery operated gun then the Hikoki I believe is the best, it uses a pneumatic system unlike the DeWalt style flywheel. It's priced to match though. The likes of a Paslode that use gas are common but are extremely loud and don't play well in the cold. Of course with a compressor driven unit you need to trail a hose and likely the compressor isn't quiet either (Hitachi do a decent silent compressor if that's what you're after). Hiring is expensive where I live, you might be best buying on eBay then selling there again when you're done, if it's likely just for the fence? And a final note would be how the nails are collated, paper feed nicely but won't survive in a damp shed, wire are bombproof but when fired can eject pieces of wire at you. Plastic are somewhat in-between. For my fence, I bought the DeWalt DCN-692 (specifically the 3rd generation model that has a far better reputation than the first, the second was decent though), I did a load off featheredge in stainless ring nails and it popped them in no bother. I already have a Hilti for steel and conctrete and figured I'm more likely to do big stuff than medium? Bit of a long rambling post but I've been down the route you're going down Quick edit: make sure you get hot dipped galvanised nails or stainless, electro plated galvanised won't last and will look awful within the year.
