Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by jhanlon303, 22 Oct 2008.
put an lcd where the drive bays are. it'd look awesome
How about putting some 1way mirrored acrylic as the one piece front door? lights off, nicely mirrored, lights on, you can see inside without opening the door? I don't really like that you have to open the door to see the res and other highlights from the front. It may not fully match with the front panels already there, but then you could replace them too!
Other than that, looking good!
Like the munchkin... thought you'd get eye protection for him!
Coming along very nicely mate.
Cheapskate's parts look fantastic!, you're a lucky guy John
Like this ?
Borrowed from my 1 of 1 Borg mod but she wants it back
Shot from long ago
It's a monitor that has TV RCA input. It was in my Jeep Grand Cherokee with a Video Tape player. Cuts down on the "Are we there yets?"
I hope that's not Marylin...
I've had the LCD and it's electronics board in and out of this tiny thing all day. It really might be a do-able idea. There is enough space to move the LCD close to where the bay covers close and make the opening in the steel a bit bigger for the elec. board. Tap into the MB RCA output and feed it to the RCA input of the LCD. Mounted where it's at doesn't allow enough space for the electronics board and the res/pump combo. Let me change batteries in my POS camera and take some brainstorming shots tonight.
My PS1 LCD WILL NOT fit so it goes back into the stash closet.
The LCD pictures
I have a bunch of pics of the LDC TV for tonight. New batteries in the POS Kodak camera and a new overhead flood light. I think the Fluorescent bulbs that got installed are making my pics weird. The contractors said because I'm up 20 hrs. a day these would save money. PHTT! Money I got - good pics I want.
This is a pic of the LCD, it's original plastic case and the vinyl bag thingy that held it to a headrest for rear seat watching.
Just the LCD and it's electronics board:
The 2 pieces separated:
They are only connected by the flat ribbon cable.
The white pieces sticking out the left side of the LCD are the backlight bulbs.
An original Sony PS1 and Sony LCD - everyone over the age of 30 has/had one
My LCD on top of the PS1. The speakers and the "wing thingies at the botton of the PS1 LCD are WAY too wide for my case and the circular PS1 LCD motherboard won't cut it.
I needed to trim out some of the original case plastic front to move the LCD closer to the mirrored doors. Big lip! An in progress shot of the cut job
A couple shots of the space between the steel case and the front plastic fascia.
There is almost an inch (25mm?) between the steel frame and the inside of the plastic where the doors close. Move the LCD to this space and put the electronics board behind it with JUST ENOUGH space for the res/pump if I move it a little to the HDD side, with the radiator on the other side.
What do you peeps think?
The little TFT; how are you planning to mount it and the control board to the case? I can see in the pics that the control board has three mount-points on it, and the TFT itself has four. Is the plan to mount it on the chassis itself so it hovers in the hole out the front of the case?
Don't worry about the pics; they look great.
I'm thinking mount the LCD to a thin black plexi piece or clear painted gloss black from the back to fill the 5 1/4" bay holes from behind and mount the electronics to the steel frame after making the hole bigger. Doesn't need to be much bigger in the steel. The goal is the blocks, res/pump and the radiator. All else is fluff. 5 lbs in a 2.5 lb case! Why do I always do this? My lady wife Marilyn says put it(the LCD) here and get rid of the Borg. Scared my Granddaughter when she was younger! It's been in the closet inside my walk in closet for ~8 years. Anatomically correct to "7 of 9".
Where do I mount these 2 80mm fans? Hmmm.
I love the sheer insanity of this mod! Is your next one going to be a passively cooled high end quad core gaming rig? You really should consider that you know...
Now how did you get THOSE measurements!?
Should fit pretty well. Nothing a modder can't fix?
Never underestimate the Trekkie community. I'm sure at least one of them gridded out screenshots and worked out her proportions. -Then converted it to metric.
...Or someone could have just filled her season one outfit with expanding foam...
Anyway, I was lurking all of Cheapskate's build on the blocks, it is nice to see that they are getting an equally cute home.
Google for Jeri Ryan. She even has her own website. BUT.....Becareful out there! Lot's of NSFW pics of Ms Ryan. 44 DD will fill a monitor quickly.
Sheesh - that's answered and now I can go back to searching for a local supplier of M3 bolts and nuts and washers.
For you of the USA persuasion, Best Buy has Crucial DDR2 1Gb memory sticks for $32.99.
Props for Cheapskate - Again !
I put the LCD away for a while - it will work. I've been concerned about the CPU stainless steel mounting under the motherboard spacewise so I assembled all the hardware bits and tried a trial fit.
I will have to whack a hole in the POS motherboard tray for this to work.
Not a problem with a motherboard tray hole.
That's NOT what I want you to see tonight. I took the blocks out of the bottom of my jewelry box and sat and looked at them for a couple hours. Gorgeous work! But Cheapskate is WAY too modest. In his log on page 5 here at post 89 he says:
"I also need to make some space for that thingamabob that is under the block. Grounding the components to the block is probably bad, right?
Never shows what he did. I found this today:
He milled a groove for the 'thingy' half way through the copper. He didn't show you but I will! It's attention to detail bigtime.
Props again to Cheapskate.
Yeah cheaps, very nice work buddy.
Thanks, but you can also see the sloppy edges on the varnish job there. I didn't mask out a neat space because I was worried the mask would leave a raised edge. -MOST of the base seats on the chips. I prolly overdid it anyway.
While we're at it...
If you ever need to take one of these apart, (God forbid! I hope you never try it!)
You have to use the classic star-pattern tightening technique to LOSEN the back too.
To put the screws back in: turn them counterclockwise until you feel them click into the thread. If they don't turn easily without a screwdriver, it means you are tapping a new thread. It's really easy to strip the holes out, so there's very little torque on them.
First his peanut butter addiction, and now his obsession to details... this thread is slowly revealing all of Cheap's secrets.
...also, I'm a leprechaun.
Separate names with a comma.