Motors Motorcycle Mayhem

Update:

Fitted a New Battery and regulator rectifier. The RR was a £ 50.

I drove to work and back. The voltage was 12.53 at 5000 RPM.
I drove it a Honda Dealer to book it in. It died in the Bike park. Also there slot was going to be in the 20th of this month. If they have space they will fit me before it.

I bought a mountain Bike to get me to work and back.

 

On the then new charging system, yes you should. (at least here I'd expect it)

 

Hey I saw another forum post where I think it was you who stripped the fairings off your ex500 and replaced the headlamp and maybe instrument cluster? I'm kind of thinking of doing the same to mine... you remember anything about how you did it? any tips?

 

Was the C90 sold in Ireland as much as it was in the UK?

 

Just tried starting my Bandit 600 after not being used for 3 months, for some reason the throttle is sticking and not returning like it should and the bike is lumpy as hell when revving. Hoping it just needs a good run in but going to order some new plugs and get some additive to help clean the carbs out.

 

Awesome Didn't realise how long/difficult that course is until I watched that. Interesting choice of bike though

 

If you can, try draining the carbs first, to get the old fuel out.
Also, do you have a fuel cutoff valve? If yes, put it away with empty carbs, it'l start easier after a long rest period with fresh fuel.

 

Alright Chaps, I need some advice as my favorite r125 is about £300 too expensive and i can’t wait 3 weeks until i get paid because i have split shifts and need transport…

So these bikes are on the table currently,

Lexmoto Venom 125 2016 (600 miles) £1000
Yamaha YBR 125 2013 (8000 miles) £1400
Suzuki Marauder 125 2004 (11000 miles) £550

Any advice or suggestions?

 

YBR will hold it's value better, marauder wont lose money but the quality isn't there in the first place for the £550 price tag (feel underpowered aswell from my first hand experience when compared to other 125's)

I would go YBR if budget permits.

 

Visited a couple motorbike shops today and basically settled on a 2008 10k mileage Honda CBF. Seems to be in fantastic condition exterior wise and pulls okay i guess.

My insurance and bike tax cost less then my cars tax alone without including the £179 a month insurance!



Any tips on the best gadgets for securing this? Apparently 8 motorcycles got nicked in one night the other day…

 

Almax chain, job jobbed.
Yes they're pricey but they be the best IMHO.

 

I have a court yard which would be ideal for keeping my bike safe with the chain but it's just battling these steps first, any ideas on the length of a ramp i should be after? would 1.8m do it?

 

If you also own the area in front of that courtyard, then installing a ground anchor will be a lot less hassle than shoving the bike up and down a ramp and through a narrow entryway. Having the chain go through a holddown will significantly reduce the risk of theft (a chain alone would still allow the bike to just be lifted by hand into a van).

 

Unfortunately it's just a rented property, and connects to a alleyway. To give you an idea of the area it's like district 9 (if you've seen the film) allot of alleyways in the area have gates with keypads to keep people out.

We do still have a massive solid old iron waste tube though which i can wrap the Almax chain around though so it's just the stairs that need conquering.

 

They're your steps dude, go get a tape measure and measure them

If you have nothing to lock to such as a ground anchor or lamp post etc then go do some googling for a bucket o'crete and how to make one

 

Has anyone recently done the motorcycle theory test? Or done a direct access test? From my understanding it's overly complicated but to move up from a 125 the bike theory test is required? Which I always find the hardest part (failed like 6 times with the car theory and hazard test) and the guys behind the desk knew me by name

 

Same as car with more motorcycle orientated questions.

You may find running through scenarios with someone might help. Knowing what a sign is doesn't mean you know why it is used or even when to look out for signs.

Some really interesting signs in the UK for example, slow moving military vehicles, quiet zones, parking on kerb where permitted etc.

The theory is just there to ensure you have an in depth understanding of British road laws and signs

 

With the greatest respect, you shouldn't be on a bike if you can't pass a theory with relative ease; you'd be a danger to yourself and other people.

 

Same principle as the testing for a car license. Assuming you are over 24 (otherwise you have power limitations) you sit a theory test prior to taking the practical, which for motorcycles is broken into Mod 1 & 2. If you can't pass a theory test you better get studying, it's not just a tick in a box, it's actually a good way to not get yourself into sticky situations.