Project Metaversa: LCD goodness (small update 17/07/05)

How much?

 

NO! Definitely not!

My PM box is cleared and you can PM me again now. But £120,-- o.n.o. for the pair of 2800MPs in their retail boxes with accompanying heatsinks, and £50,-- for the pair of 1800MPs.

 

since you seem to be pretty good with the Watercooling nexxo I figure Ill ask you this question.

I just mixed in 6 ounces of Zerex Super Coolant with 1 gallon of distilled water and I loaded it up into my watercooling system and I seem to be getting alot of foam. any suggestions?

 

make sure you dont have any air in your watercooling

and also if you use a reservoir
make sure that you water that get in the reservoir get in below the waterlevel so it doesnt catch air when getting in

and after like an hour or 2 hours of running then the only foam you wil get in your watercoolkit is in your reservoir wich over time will dissapear

 

Check the mixture. It should be about 5%, so 1 gallon water needs only 0.19 litres (or 0.40 US pints) of Zerex Racing (don't know how to translate this to ounces). Zerex should not foam.

Check for cavitation. Is the pump getting enough liquid at the intake, or is there underpressure at the inlet? Does the pump rattle? Is there a leak at the inlet allowing air to get mixed in?

If you're not getting any joy, make a photo of your circuit and we can analyse the problem in a thread on Exteme Cooling.

You may find that using Zerex leaves a slight opaque layer inside Tygon or Clearflex tubing. Do not be alarmed --that is normal and will not affect your system in any way.

 

Awesome mod.

Minimalism > sdvasdgvreqgtfrewgtjtyjtyjty-ism, IMO.

Yay.

 

Any chance of a full-case pic as it stands Nexxo?

Sam

 

that GPU support bracket is an interesting piece of work.

Do you have a shot of it installed looking down along the edge of, so I can see the rubber trim inside the "U" of the aluminum thats supporting the card?

I'm interested in making one myself but for other reasons.

 

You wouldn't see the rubber trim. The aluminium U beam overlaps it by about 1mm.

If I get time I'll make a Mod Guide to this bracket.

 

i mean like this


from the side, looking into the "U" channell.

 

My camera won't reach there. When I swap the mobo out, I'll have to disassemble some stuff and do it then.

Meanwhile, having eyeballed the new mobo (MSI K8T Master 2-Far) it looks like my current blocks may be too wide and interfere with the AGP card (despite adaptations to the mountings), so I may have to switch to different ones... DangerDen makes TDX blocks with mountings custom-fit for this motherboard (their standard Xeon ones are a bit too wide) at no extra cost.

Hmmm... silver TDX blocks...

 

Christmas coming early for you I see!

 

Well, it is certainly going to cost all my Christmas dosh... But it will be worth it.

Fired up the board today on an aircooled arrangement for now. It actually works (and with the K8T Master 2Far that appears to be no mean feat), and recognises the Opteron 250s for what they are. It is remarkably finnicky about memory (same behaviour as the K7D ) and this leads me to think one of the sticks is a dud (the fact that it became VERY HOT very quickly at some point being a clue). It will only work with the other one --even then it took some coaxing and reseating before it booted. So I guess I'll have to get myself some validated Kingston. Otherwise, it appears to be a happy board.

No, because it is scattered all over the living room floor at the moment.

 

Better remember to buy some flowers on the way home!

 

Lol...

Well, we want pics as soon as you're done then!

Sam

 

this project you got here is truly amazing

the perfection

lol

keep up the amazing work

cant wait to see it finished

 

yeah... neither can I...

Just one reply and I'll stop spamming my own thread...

Some interesting facts about the K8T Master 2Far that are not mentioned on the MSI site or in the reviews:
- it does not have the D-LED bracket anymore (those four status LEDs, which were quite useful, actually... )
- it does not have a buzzer on-board. Don't get rid of your PC speaker.
- it does have a connection for an LCD display (JLCD1). It's a generic 5 pin array with a Tx and Rx, GND1, GND0 and Vcc connection. There is no further explanation what this is for, but it is located where the D-LED bracket connection used to be. Nothing is included in the box that connects to it. Of course, most CrystalFontz and MO LCD panels have the same connections for those who wish the use them in more generic applications, so in theory you could hook one up. I suspect it won't do anything though, as there is no software to drive it (yet). I wonder what MSI is up to. Something like Abit's mGuru LCD panel? On the other hand, Microsoft is looking at the next Windows driving a small LCD panel on, say, laptops for additional information (battery status, mail, WMP info etc.) so perhaps there's a future for this.
- The sockets have a sturdy metal backplate on the underside of the motherboard, with screwholes corresponding with the Xeon mounting holes on the mobo. This is to screw the heatsink (or heatsink retaining clips) into. The screw thread is M3. This means that you can bolt any waterblock on there with M3 screws for a secure fit. So I've decided to keep my current blocks, as I have found a way to mount them securely and easily.
- Contrary to info on the MSI site, it does have sound. Sound connectors come on a PCI blanking plate.
- It is picky with memory. It doesn't just like everything. Look at the QVL list on MSI's global site to make sure.
- Opterons want 7.06 Amps each on the 12V rail. The mobo wants 0.3 Amps. Be prepared to have a fairly beefy supply.

 

Sounds like it's going to be a little bit of a pain to get configured but a beast when it's all running Glad to hear those blocks are going to be used, would've been a shame to use them as paperweights/ part with them Look forward to a shiny update

 

Nexxo, I have a question about the aluminium plate you used. I have started modding my Lian Li PC-V2000 case and I will have to make some aluminium parts myself. I saw you have used some aluminium plates in your MOD too, maybe you can tell me how thick those plates are. If hope my next MOD can stand in the shadow of yours. Those waterblocks are so beautiful!!!!
greetings from the Netherlands.

 

The aluminium sheet is 2mm thickness, which is standard for most Lian-Li cases. I suspect the outer walls of the Lian-Li V2000 are 3mm, but the internal walls should still be 2mm.

The waterblocks are off to Enak to get new retention collars CNC'd for Xeon mountings. Fingers crossed.