Indeed, cool screenie. Love that green color, looks great. Contrasts the fittings and fan housings nicely. Not at all as in-your-face, much more my style Are those Al-body fans pretty quiet? I like the look and they'd be cool for a HTPC or something if they're not loud.
The EverCool's are my favorite fans once you get past the white plastic supports. the 120mm specs are 80CFM@29db..I have used them many times with great results. I wish they would make a 120x38mm model.. PS: I don't know if there are any photo-buffs out there, if so you may have noticed this last update was shot @ 70-150mm..There is method to my madness. Practice for my new Canon Lens which I should have in a few days..expect even-better pictures from this point forward..
I think you are headed for some interesting testing of your flowmeter. You are going to have to do some extensive testing to come up with the correct number so that the Aquaero interface reads the right flow. My suggestion is to set it up in a closed loop using a gallon bottle for a reservoir. After letting the pump run for about 3-5 minutes take the return line going into the reservoir and put it into some kind of graduated cylinder for exactly one minute. This will give you your flow in liters per minute (LPM). Repeat this 3-5 times and average out the results. Then adjust the Aquaero interface factor till you get the same LPM on the display.
Just use the original outtake as the intake. That's all he has got to do. Then reconfigure the Aquaero. I will look up the things you need to do Modsquad. I do the same with my flowmeter and found the way to do it on the AC forum. AC will have to do something with those flowkilling flowmeters. I don't mind the small boring from the watercooling blocks, but the intake from the flowmeter is just soooooooooooo damn small. I found it. When the intake is drilled to 6mm and the in-and outtake from the flowmeter the otherway round, you should use 256 Impulses for the Aquaero.
Yes, you're right. Now I see. I think I will dissappear from Modsquads topics for a while, because I think I gave him the idea to drill out the opening. ooops
In my mind the reason for a flow meter is not to say "my loop is flowing at x l/m" but instead to make sure the flow rate is not going down due to a clogged line or accelerator plate on the Cuplex XT or pump problems.. So what I am saying is as long as I have a steady flow rate I will be happy..
Maybe I'm being silly, but why on earth would drilling out the stupidly restritive intake change the calibration? Is it something to do with pressure? Surely it's just the RPM of the impeller, which would just be faster due to higher flow, right?
You give the answer yourself Firehed. You can demonstrate the effect with a gardenhose. Squeeze it together and the water will come out much faster.
I suppose that is right, but a flowmeter is also useful when you start changing things around to tell you if you are going in the right direction. Also there is the snob factor so you can say my flow is xx.
You mean the right direction as in flow rate (more flow/less flow)? It will still give you the same information, the only loss would be the "snob" factor you spoke of. I do know the meter will flow much/much better... I am excited!! I got my new zoom lens today: can wait to start using it...
You're on the right track. I also suggest black vinyl dye to eliminate the white and perhaps red plex. over the lense to tie into the design themes of the two worklogs.
Side Window Phase1 Telescopes are cool. I have a friend who is into astronomy (another expensive hobby)..I think he has a Meade.. @Goth: your right on with the price tag.. I had the day off work and started on what will be the "new & improved" side window. The idea is to replicate the look of the top window's glowing edge: I ruff-cut the window shape in green UV acrylic and sanded it's edges with the Dremel It took quite some time to get to this point. This will be the outer window. It will sit about 3-4mm higher than the case panel to expose it's edge.. The inner-window will be clear acrylic (which I need to order) and the outer-window will bolt to the inner one. This is more/less what I did on project BN.. It's very close to dropin' in..I will finish it up with a needle file. Then drill/tap for the bolts needed to secure it to the inner-window. I need: clear acrylic and stainless hexhead bolts..Thus, the end of side window phase1..
What does that have to do with calibration though? Dunno, maybe it's my messed up sleep schedule or just not having one that's throwing me off. Anyways, quite the lens there MS! I hope you do more than just photograph mods with that... like run a photo studio or something. I like the idea of the glowing-edge window, much less in-your-face/radioactive look while still giving a nice flair.
FLAIR...ideal key-word..Thanks Firehed..Thats what it is, a FLAIR of light.. I was not going to "touch this" but as you re-opened the can of worms: I respect Franklin and his work, but he is wrong.....An increase in pressure does not equal an increase in flow.. H20 is flowing @x l/m..If you "squeeze the hose together" yes, you will get higher pressure. The H20 source is providing x l/m..that is not going to change.. in fact...by increasing the back-pressure, the flow rate will decrease..It's an "optical illusion"...the H20 looks to be flowing faster, but it is impossible...2+2 can not equal 5.... So, as long as I can find a "pulse-rate" that shows an l/m number and that number does not change..I am all set... Make sense? My Canon 70-200mm Lens: I have been a photo-buff for over 10 years. I bet I shoot 1000 pictures a month. Do I need a Canon L-series lens? No, but it's "only money" and I enjoy it....You only live once Firehed...Time is a fleeting-thing, the older I become the more logic I see in that proclamation
