condisdering the shape of the drive bay is not completely straight, it owuld be hellish to try to polish that, id say you get a pack of acousitc dampening material or modders mesh and plate the side of the drive bay, i would prefer the mesh with a peice of UV green plexi sandwiched between it and the drive bay
I tried plugging in the CPU fan, that has 4 pins to the place on the board that only has 3, but it won't fit here. What's this 4 pin power for? This cable comes from the floppy/media reader, but I don't know where to plug it in. The 4 pin jumper above doesn't say if it has data + or data -. Here's 2 pics of what he proc will kind of look like with the engine cover on. I painted the exposed drive bays black. I'm gonna copy the look of an engine with this CAT 5 cable. I cut it up and I'm going to try to find a way to make it look good there. Lastly I made all the power connections and cleaned up the wiring. The IDE cables will be black.
o for the cable, use those car fuse wire seperators, they will look nice on the side of the drive thingy
The CPU fan plug likely has PWM modulation; just remove the 3 pins from the connector and insert them into another one, then tuck the wire with the 4-pin away somewhere. As to the mini molex plug below the heatsink - that, along with the perpetual connector above the chipset is intended to help fuel power hungry CPUs. Plug them in.
Unfortunatly its a case of RTFM here because the chance of the MB connections matching is slim The MB manual may have the correct pin configuration if it matcheds the revision of your board.
I knew a couple of manufacturers in their wisdom decided to use a unique pin/wiring configuration. But thought that was on the older boards?
I'm pretty sure most recent boards now use a standard USB header layout also, don't plug stuff into random things, god knows what will happen
Yes it is. I plugged them both in (the floppy connector and molex) to the motherboard. I sure hope there isn't a short or overload.
I've decided against the blue wires. It looked real stupid and untidy. With just a black cage it looks real clean and simple.
there wont be most people have found the boards work better with those supplimentry connectors connected, even though it says its only needed for SLI
Yep... this is the same on the dual mobo boards which have the extra connectors to help supply decent/stable volts etc.
I bought a 10 inch UV cathode from AutoZone. These are brighter than ones made for PC's. I got out a spare molex Then I cut off the end and separated the 12V from the ground. I did the same with the molex Then soldered them together. And it works! So I put it in the case. Next comes the engine/processor mod. I bought an 80mm blow hole funnel and a 120mm to 92mm fan adapter. I slid one into the other.... And cut away the excess. Then screwed it back to the heatsink. Finally, I used silicone to bond the engine top to the structure.
