Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Nexxo, 21 Jan 2014.
I don't know how people can leave projects unfinished for so long
Looks great. You guys make me want a new project. Only issue is finding parts...
I think I'm going looking for materials tomorrow. Do something new. Old. Something. Thanks, Nexxo. I needed this.
Thank you for update Nexxo!
coincidentally I was thinking about scopEdog, and wondering if he'll ever come back to Modding.
we all hope so...
I didn't do it! I knew you were busy.
It's still going. I have been working on it, but not yet ready to show what I have been doing.
I have been rather busy at work... something to do with a global pandemic and stuff...
A global pandemic you say? Funny, not seen anything on the news about it...
Yes. there is a major shortage of pans.
this log came up in Google search today, so how could I not drop in and ask "any updates?"
Hey Bill, how goes the store. Getting back on track?
GAAAAH! Bill of all people!
I had a sliver of hope for a second.
To paraphrase Granny Weatherwax: the project aten't dead. I am currently working on the actual innards of the PC, and the motherboard assembly. A small part of this has been to install the EKWB Monarch X2 waterblocks on the Kingston Hyper memory (picked mainly for its black PCB which matches neatly with the Asus Impact VI mobo). Of course it comes with heat spreaders which first need to be removed. There are some descriptions on the net about this process, and some rather non-specific videos, so I thought I will give an account of how I went about it.
Useful tools for this process are soft plastic iFixit prying tools, such as this triangular opening pick and the stick-like, well, "opening tool". Another vital item is a heat gun, set to no higher than 50 degrees C.
The heatspreaders are basically held together by a stip of double-sided tape sticking them to the RAM chips on both sides (they also interlock a bit at the spine). Gently heating the RAM with the heatgun --again, no hotter than 50C, or just hot enough that they become uncomfortable to hold with bare fingers, softens this tape up nicely. This is a quick process. I then used the opening tool to gently lever the heat spreader away from the PCB. Be careful where you insert the tool! The PCB has tiny SMC components surrounding the RAM chips anywhere, and you do not want to accidentally prise them off.
As you lever away the heatspreader gently, the tape starts to slowly peel away from the RAM chips (if it doesn't, heat it some more --it takes mere seconds). This takes a little time, but makes for a clean peel that means you don't have to scrape residue from the chips (if you have to, use the plastic pick). Don't force it too much; apply constant pressure and feel the heatspreader peel way. Do the same on the other side.
The result is some clean, denuded RAM sticks. Enter the EKWB RAM cooling assembly:
This consists of four plates, 4x8=32 pre-cut RAM heat pads and screws, and a hex tool. Bought separately is the actual block. The heat pads have a slightly tacky white side, and a non-tacky blue side. I used a tweezers to position them on the RAM chips. Fun factoid: the tweezer was borrowed from one of my antique brass Victorian microscopes. Tres Steampunk.
Once both sides are done, the stick is placed on one of the plates. To ensure consistent alignment, I used the white SMC components in the left as a line. It is important to check the notch on the contact side to make sure both sticks are oriented the same on each set of plates.
Then the other plate is placed on top and the plates secured with three countersunk M2x6 hex screws. Make sure to use the flat-headed ones, not one of the four slightly round-headed ones which are meant to afix the plates to the block later. Tighten but not too hard --the PCBs will be secured but not crushed. And there we are!
The block is best mounted once the RAM sticks are actually in place on the mobo, to ensure good alignment. Some thermal paste (included) is used on the spines of the plates to ensure good heat transfer to the block.
And just as an encore, this is the full-cover monoblock that will sit on the Asus Impact VI motherboard. Shiny!
Oh my god. I think about this bloody mod all of the time. Just waiting, praying....
FOR CRYING OUT... oh. - Didn't expect that. There were no earthquakes or tidal waves to herald your coming.
Today, I have been mostly installing waterblocks:
This is necessary to allow me to plan tubing and motherboard assembly... I won't bore you with the details, but I dropped in a Core i7-4790T 4-Cores 8-Threads 2.7Ghz LGA1150 (special low heat 45W version --the more I save here, the more I can allow for the GPU) and installed the monoblock and the RAM block, and then test-fitted the TrueBrass fittings. The result looks... tasty:
The holes of the blocks align fairly well, which will make planning the tubing easier:
With the sound and network PCB installed, it is getting fairly dense. This is a beautifully compact board.
And with the fittings in place, and oriented as it will be mounted in the PC:
Like I said: tasty. I like. I like a lot.
On to the motherboard tray! This will feature home-made standoffs and thumbwheel mountings, a copper detail to complement the monoblock, and SDD cradles on the other side. Lots of very precise measuring to do!
Holy ****... it's almost, dare i say it...
Quite a bit to do, I'm afraid. After the mobo tray there is the custom wiring (lots of custom wiring), some detailing and lighting and cable management and I'm not sure whether to go with nixie tubes for stats or a more practical secondary display.
Oh, and I'm working on a custom mouse and keyboard. Brass, aluminium and black walnut detailing.
I think nixie tubes would look the most apt. If you went for a secondary display, maybe make it an array of gauges with a faceplate in front just showing the gauges rather than a slab of screen.
Separate names with a comma.