Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by fangame, 2 Nov 2010.
Just put an Arduino to make the fins open when the temps get high.
That would be a WIN in DIY.
+1 that would be EPIC (mdpc material if you sleeved it with mdpc-x )
If that grill would open based on temperature, that would be awesome indeed
It's true that this work has asked a lot of time and precision ...
Yes, it would be perfect with an Arduino.
But I must use a PIC16F628, and I do program it with a display, a temperature sensor and a servo-motor.
Thank you compare me to EPIC, they really do a great job!
Their mod are really perfect ...
As you said, the fins must be opened from a certain temperature and close when the PC is cold.
A new update with the Rheobus.
Here's the schema, which consists primarily of a potentiometer and a regulator LM317T.
It has 8 channels as inputs and can control the fans from 0 to 11volts. (The loss is due to regulator)
The diode is a 1N4002 diode, it's a freewheeling diode.
The resistance is a 120ohms, coupled to a potentiometer 1Kohm.
And tantalum capacitors are 0.1μF.
The 22μF has been deleted.
Here is a circuit test on a test plate of my school:
Everything works well but is not very practical to test everything, so I soldered on a piece of CI,
and there's going better right away!
Surprisingly enough the F8 starts with a low voltage (around 2V on the voltmeter).
Now that everything is validated up to the real rhéobus:
So I started with soldering the diodes.
Then a row of capacitors:
Then comes the second row of capacitors, 5 lines down:
And between the two rows I soldered fans connector offered by Aquatuning (Thanks to them in passing )
Then I soldered the resistate standing to save space:
And then the regulators:
After I have connecting all the components with small piece of wire:
Red for +, Black for -, and Blue for the Adjust.
Red, capacitor to the regulator:
Then the black (ground).
Below the dotted line is the mass of the general supply of Rheobus.
Then I realized the power line 12V circuits:
here is the Adjust wire:
Finally I soldered potentiometers previously cut:
A view of the front:
The next step was the cutting of the CI with a cutter to the right size:
And now a picture with the front in place.
And here is the final result, once the molex plug are welded:
(Note that on some pictures we see that missing two capacitors, I solves that at the end.)
I spent quite some time but I must say I like the result ...
You're missing the heatsinks
Oh sheet, newbie in modding , well if you consider this newb stuff then I sure look forward to what you do when you consider yourself good mate .
If I were to try something like this I'd have to copy it as I don't know jack about what the little components do .
This diy fan controller looks excellent & very neat, great work +rep.
u need deffnitly heathsinks!
After doing this to that standard I doubt he'll have probs installing heatsinks .
The Lm317 is a linear regulator. So the greater the difference between input and output voltage is, the more heat is generated.
Worst Case scenario:
Vo=1,2V (minimum for the 317)
5,4W without a heatsink... i don't think so
That is one of the cleanest custom fan controllers I have seen. I do agree however, heatsinks are crucial on fan controllers to deal with heat generated. After seeing on catch on fire you will be much more cautious .
Amazing fan controller!
The main power connector will stay this way?
Sorry I'm a little late here...but I just noticed those pictures of whatever you were cutting on the lathe.
What material was that, stainless or aluminum?
Either way, it seems as if your insert is not near sharp enough. You shouldn't be getting that rough of a surface. It's either that or your feed is too high.
Get a sharper tool and crank up the RPM a bit, and make sure the feed is adjusted accordingly to the material you are working with. Actually, scratch that. Get a brand new insert .
Edit: Check here for proper feeds: http://www.southbaymachine.com/setups/cuttingspeeds.htm
When I see the work that some people achieve in this forum, I consider myself as a newbie.
Thanks for your supports.
Yes, I must create it soon...
Oh yeah!! Tanks for your reply...
I didn't know how to calculate the power dissipation.
Think you, I need large rads, or a small enough.
Normally I have to stick the connector on the Rheobus bracket.
Thank you for your advice
If I understand you speak of my axis of rotation of the fins support...
For this piece, I used steel.
And I had a little difficulty because the lathe have a chuck some non aligned (1 tenth)
And thanks for the links, it's very interesting!
Absolutely love how precise you've positioned everything. I think it says a lot about a person with the effort they put into even the smallest details of a mod!!
definitely have to agree with that. good job!
+1 to that!!!
coming along quite nicely. the movable vents on the top is an interesting concept.
JY_OC_HX, Nitrixflare, AnG3L:
It's true, I think the success and beauty of a mod is in the details ...
I didn't show you the underside of the Rheobus, so here are the pictures:
And a detail:
Good soldering fangame
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