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Project Metaversa: LCD goodness (small update 17/07/05)

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Nexxo, 11 Apr 2003.

  1. Xoddoza

    Xoddoza New Member

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    Flawless, as per usual.

    Some people just have that thing and end up making stuff like this.

    I will continue to pray to this mod every morning. :) :clap:

    Well done nexxo. Perfect.

    -Xoddoza
     
  2. hitman012

    hitman012 Active Member

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    This might have taken a long time but it's certainly worth it!

    Simply stunning work :jawdrop:
     
  3. Nexxo

    Nexxo Stopped treating this country as if it was his own

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    More eyecandy...

    Been experimenting with Samurize a bit more... here the results:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. TTmodder

    TTmodder Hammertime

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    me wan't that lcd display :jawdrop:
     
  5. Firefox90

    Firefox90 New Member

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    Man I love that. You have inspired me to do something like that on my mod. I will have to figure out samurize now. I think I am going to use that $50 5" LCD from tigerdirect.
     
  6. giorgioprimo

    giorgioprimo New Member

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    how to control the water flow?

    Hi nexxo, may you just explain again how did you realized the water-flow control circuit?
    and how did you realize to show it with sumarize?
    Thanks
     
  7. Nexxo

    Nexxo Stopped treating this country as if it was his own

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    It's not really flow control, just a flow sensor. I used a Swissflow SF800 unit which is an industrial flow sensor with high accuracy and reliability (one moving part, no friction). It emits 100Hz per litre per minute flow (1 l/min. = 100 Hz, 2 l/min. = 200Hz etc.) so it is easy to calibrate. It comes with 3/8" BSP thread connections and costs 50 Euros. Below you see it below a Gentech flow switch.

    [​IMG]
    The wiring diagram in the picture is how you wire up the Swissflow. And therein lies its beauty: you can then hook it up to a fan header on your motherboard like any fan, and read its Hz (as RPM) in Speedfan or MBM.

    Here the SF800 installed on my res inlet (the cable trailing from it is connected to an ordinary 3-pin fan header and plugged into the mobo):

    [​IMG]

    Samurize works with both MBM and Speedfan per default. Moreover it can peform mathematical operations on the values it receives, using a little Samurize plug-in called "Metermath.dll". So to turn RPM values back to l/min. values you just divide the RPM value by 6000. Presto!

    There are an awful lot of little electronics that will work almost out of the box with your mobo fan headers. In fact I recently found a transistor that reports temperature in terms of Hz. It can be more or less connected straight to the motherboard, so with the right mathematical formula in Samurize you can display the "RPM" as degrees C or F. Temp sensors on fan headers? It can be done. ;)
     
  8. huren

    huren New Member

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    ive just spent the last hour or so reading this log, and im amazed, purly amazed at the dedication u have for this case.

    GREAT work.
     
  9. obzelite

    obzelite New Member

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    Same here, just located a psone screen for my project.
    Downside i have to buy a psone as well, but i want a decent screen.
     
  10. giorgioprimo

    giorgioprimo New Member

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    Nexxo about flow sensor

    thanks for the nice explication, now I just need to find a sf800, or something similar.
    Just one more question, is it possible to shut down the PC if the flow stop? (for a pump problem for example....)
     
  11. Jock

    Jock Banned

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    Hi Nexxo,

    Been reading this log for years :eyebrow: and I have to say brilliant work mate.

    Just one question... do you have a side on shot of the rig with the LCD installed. The reason I'm asking is, there doesn't seem to be much room behind the floppy bezels due to your rad / pump etc, and I'm interested to see how you done it.

    I have the same case as yours (well almost) and I have a PA160 rad installed instead of what you have..... and its flippin' huge ! Which makes my 3 1/2" bays redundant (pretty much) :waah:

    You think I could install an LCD in mine ? (I doubt it, but worth asking - as you're struggling for room too).

    Here is a side on image of my rig:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Nexxo

    Nexxo Stopped treating this country as if it was his own

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    In some motherboards, you can set up the BIOS to shut down the PC in case of a fan failure. In this case, the flow sensor would be the "fan". So yes, if the flow suddenly drops the BIOS can initiate shutdown.

    For those motherboards that do not support this, there is still the CPU overheat protection. Mine is set to kill the PC if the CPUs get above 75C --still too early for any damage to occur but definitely will only happen if flow fails for some reason.

    Furthermore Speedfan or MBM can be configured to shut down the PC in case of fan (in this case, again the flow sensor) failure.

    However I still haven't abandoned the idea of the "Divine Protection" circuit that I was trying to get developed. Currently an electronics wiz (on WizdUK forums, typically :D ) called Starbuck3733T is looking at a newer, more elegant version called "Demonic Protection". This would monitor the fan sensor output (alongside of Samurize) and provide a hardware way of shutting down the PC, to have pretty much overall safety even if the monitoring software fails due to a Windows crash or something.

    Innovatek has a fan alarm which does something similar, although it may require a slight mod as it multiplies the flow sensor signal (made for a different flow sensor, see?) whereas in this case you don't want it to.

    @Jock:

    That is a beautifully clean rig you have there! The PA160 looks very interesting and may be a useful alternative to consider if I ever want to add SLI to my rig (with the new MSI Master dual Opteron board).. hmmm... What are your temperatures? :D

    Actually, I think you can do it. The LCD does not stick out into the case at all but rather is mounted on top of the front frame that the bezel attaches to. The bezel is then mounted over the screen. In your case, the metal bezel should provide even more space. The screen is about 15mm thick.

    If you go back to Post 119 you will see a number of detailed shots of how the screen was mounted. However if you use a PSOne LCD the PCB board is a bit larger and more unwieldy. However I still think you could do it.
     
  13. Jock

    Jock Banned

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    Thanks for the info mate :)

    As for the PA160 rad... I'm running an FX55 (Clawhammer) and an ATi X850XT and my temps are 39c & 41c respectively (load temps). :p

    Cheers

    Jock
     
  14. Nexxo

    Nexxo Stopped treating this country as if it was his own

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    The tweaking continues... :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 29 Jul 2005
  15. giorgioprimo

    giorgioprimo New Member

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    I'll go for that, thanks
     
  16. obzelite

    obzelite New Member

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    very nice.

    you may need to write a how-to for that proggy cause u seem to have developed a talent.
     
  17. Nexxo

    Nexxo Stopped treating this country as if it was his own

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    No need. The Samurize website has extensive tutorials and a user forum where you can find all your questions answered. :thumb:
     
  18. Alien

    Alien New Member

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    @ Nexxo:

    1st off, I'd just like to say you really know how to make a guy feel inferior, thanks a bunch! :D j/k. Seriously though, great work.

    There is 1 thing my system has over yours though. I wouldn't trade power supplies. Not that there's anything wrong with yours, per se. From what I hear, they're a very good make. but when it comes to cabling & looks, I think I prefer my Ultra X-Connect. :) [it's only drawback is that you can't plug the cables that come with it directly into a HDD if it's in a sideways mounted 3.5" bay, but then in my case the window doesn't go far enough over to see that side of the drive, so is not an issue.]

    Just for future reference, you can save yourself the hassle of cleaning up frayed ends on braided sleeving if you cut it a different way. I don't know how you cut it, but I'm guessing normal scissors? If instead you use a sharp knife, & get the blade nice & hot [I use that micro-jet mini blow-torch that maplin sell for about a fiver] just before you cut it, it'll stop it from fraying.

    Oops, looks like my memory's going with old age - it's actually a penny shy of a tenner.

    Also, I know that you've got your eye on another MSI board for if/when you decide to build an SLI-based system, but may I instead suggest the Tyan K8WE. AFAIK, it's the only mobo that can run 2 cards in x16 mode. AFAIK all other SLI boards can only do x16 for 1 card, & if you put in another they drop down to x8. Still, I suppose it's always possible that by the time you get round to doing that project MSI may have bought out a board that can compete with the K8WE.

    Oh, & someone else asked about ATI having SLI capable cards - yes, they just haven't been released yet, they're still working on them.
     
  19. Nexxo

    Nexxo Stopped treating this country as if it was his own

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    Thanks for the tips. :D

    The Tyan K8WE is indeed a great board (see Coolermiester's Dualmaster project log), and something like it will probably form the basis for Metaversa 02 which will come in a custom CNC'd aluminum case (designed specifically for watercooling --it's already developing in Sketchup but you'll have to wait... ;) ). However in my current Lian-Li PC-12 case setup it would not fit. In any case no SLI setup will actually be needing 2 times x16 bandwidth in the foreseeable future, so it's all a bit overkill.

    ATI are about to release their Crossfire cards, but currently they will only work on ATi Crossfire motherboards. Whether they will work on nVidea based boards also is yet unknown.
     
  20. maeterlinck

    maeterlinck New Member

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    It's £5 when it's on special offer which it is periodically.

    You can actually use a cigarette lighter which works pretty well for frayed edges.
     

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