SlaterSpeeds 'Liquified' - Update 09/08/04 - Stage2 Started!! (Painting)

Thanks Geoff, im currently trying to finish my D+T A-Level. What a joke it is! ive spend my whole life designing stuff, built several custom cars and lots of pcs yet im still struggling to get a grade C

Anyway back OT





Sorry about the crappy pics i fogot the flash was off

 

You did an awesome job here, both with a waterblock and a radiator. I have the same core as you and I also killed it in a same way as you, my drill slipped a little and made a big hole :-((( I'm interested how did you move the barbs on the side, did you solder them? Also I would like to know how did you cover the holes of the original barbs, that is a problem I still didn't solve.

Looking forward to see how will it go with other waterblocks...

 

Hi thanks, To block the original tubes i cut them down so there was about 1mm of pipe left. The pipes extended into the core by about 5mm so i made a circular brass plug that was a tight fit in the hole and soldered that in to the bit of pipe that was left. I then filed down the excess meterial and smoothed it over with a bit of car body filler to make it look nice. It took many attempts to get a good bead of solder around the brass plugs as every time i filed off the excess it had very small leaks but after about 10 goes it worked ok.

With the original core i was planning to use a flat plate of brass soldered on the top of the tank over the hole. i suspect that that would have been easyer but i dont think it would look quite as good in the end.

For the new pipes i made up some bosses on the lathe and drilled the holes with a very slow hand drill so i could keep control of it.Then used a bit of copper piping for the longer of the 2 tubes and soldered it all together. that bit was easy

 

W00t! finaly got the psu!

heres what ive been up2 so far.



Removed the AT powerconnector and sleaved up the ATX and 12v Connectors. I think i cut the sleaving a little long so the sleving is a bit bigger than it should be. However it still looks ok to me

Next job is to put some termanals in so i can connect my pump/s up inside the psu itself and to fit all the drives in the case so i can get the 90deg molexes in the right place

 

nice work mate
lol every time i look at this thread (subscribed o course) i just keep getting bitter about that damn LCD. It doesnt seem right that I paid for mine and I have a malfunctioning one, and you gots urs free and its working fine
I ussually dont hold grudges, but damnit its getting to me!

anyways keep up the fantastic work

 

looking great, btw what kind of lcd is that (meaning brand and model )

 

Crystalfontz CFAG12864B-TMI-V
from m00ie.com

beat ya slater

 

slater3333uk i was doing a serach on lcd. And i saw you picked that up for 10quid. My god. Good deal grr!!. I was gonna pm you and ask if i could buy it off u. Damn you. *sorry to take of topic*

 

Lol no! this one was the one i won for free!!! from m00ie.com

The one i brought from hitman for £10 was not as good as this it was just a 2x16 text thing which needed a bit of rewiring. Still good for £10 tho! im going to get it going again but not sure if i will use it now as i brought it before i won this one. on the other hand i may use it in another rig

 

Hi all, first post!
This is one fine project, I'll be sure to follow its prgress.

SlaterSpeed, can you give us the dimensions and year of the Heatercore you are using? I take it that heatercores are slightly better than "off the shelf" PC Rads?

LAz.

 

Hi welcome to the Bit

The heatercores have a fin area of 190mm by 180mm The tanks are about 20mm high on the top and 15mm high on the bottom so thats 190x205mm alltogether.

Heatercores tend to give a bit better performance than purpose built rads but the main reson for using them is that they are great value for money!

 

Thanks for the warm welcome.
I like the idea of great value for money Can you suggest a similar build heatercore (ie coper+brass) but a little smaller, what vehicle and year? I have a breakers yard right round the corner

Laz.

 

Well im not relly sure of may other types of car that have sutible heatercores. Ive been serching for 2years now but the only cars i have found that relly have the copper/brass cores are Vauxhall Astras,Novas and Corsas. I suspect that all vauxhalls will have someting simlar. (my cores are astra in case you were wondering)

Ive looked in loads of cars like Fords, europeanmakes such as VW or Peugeot and Japanese makes such as Toyota and Honda but they all have aluminium cores which are nowhere neer as good.

Sorry i cant be of more help

 

Aaaa, you are putting this slowly together, good job

 

Wow these 90deg molexes are great!





Pump cable enters the psu at the side



More soon

 

to right!!, VERY COOL!! (i want some )

 

it's slightly OT but I have a brass/copper core that was a replacement for a 91 ford escort. (my car's OEM one (aluminum) broke and i ordered 2 replacements)
though, it is a bit big (element's about 6" by 7") so probably not good for the inside of a computer. your best bet is not an OEM (original equipment manufacturer) core from a junked car, but a replacement one from a retailer. I ordered my core for about $20US from a place online called rockauto.com but local retailers shouldn't be too much more expensive.

HTH

 

That's what I need to do with my powe cables. I have a bunch of excess where its connected to two drives right next to eachother. Looks really slick

 

i know i'm gonna get either 'd or 'd for this, but wherefore do you get them 90 deg molexes, linkme!

 

www.m00ie.com