Scratch Build – In Progress Temporary name: Bloo Balls --6-29-'11 Bloo 2.0 refit COMPLETED page 47

you can solder copper & steel together?!?! what about other metals? I have some resistors & capacitors with metal legs, i'm not sure what type of metal they are, but solder sticks to them - so can i solder these onto a circuit board that has traces made of copper?

and whats with the floppy drive?
and Peanut butter thermal paste?
i must have missed a thing or two in this log

 

I just saw him solder copper, no steel or something else. I thought that wasn's possible. And the capacitors and resistors are meant to be soldered to a circuit board, so yeah, that'll work

 

This pic shows he soldered the entire thing to whatever surface he was working on.

Cheapskate the case is still looking great. Good work guy!

 

The legs of the components are tinned, they've been dipped in solder already to make solder stick to them better and protect against oxidation, you can solder them to copper traces. Underneath the tinning there will be copper wires.

Moriquendi

 

Thanks everyone.

@mvagusta -you got me, You cheeky bugger! I should have implied you could solder the stuff together to make decent structural supports or something. I was joking anyway. -My way of saying: 'don't use sheet metal to support your work.'

 

lol

 

I am not completely sure about soldering, or as carrying a current, but if your brazing, (like pipes, et cetera), you use 45% silver to braze from say copper to stainless et cetera. This needs to be done when brazing flex line on suction lines of phase change. It creates a very strong hold.

45% is very expensive however...

Cheapskate: the case... overall is just looking amazing...

 

Soldering means a cold solder; Brazing means a hot solder. The difference is in the temperature you heat the soldered components. One of the advantages brazing has over welding is the fact that you can solder or braze different types of metals. Most common metal pairs have solders and fluxes that will work.

 

What have I started this time?

Thanks, Teyber. I'm close to sealing everything up for the holidays to keep the kiddies out of it. I have a ton of deadly, sharp, or poisonious things to put away. The particular group showing up this year have a BAD habit of digging through the closets and cabinets.

 

I jinxed myself again with the above post...
The leak test detected -a leak! It's right where I expected one, too. It's where the T-line goes into the reservoir. -That spot that had to be glued in place rather than soldered.
I have pics, but poo-to bucket is being a b*tch again. I even tried re-saving the pics in a different file format.

 

OK... I'm back in. I'm getting fuzzy in the brain and forgot why I couldn't upload last time. I'm not sure WHY blocking my neighbor's MAC address would stop me from uploading. -Or why it would only block my pics but not pics saved from the internet... Is the FBI watching me again?


-This is actually not an uncommon sight in my kitchen. The wierdest thing I ever boiled was a carburetor from a '63 Falcon. I know now that vinegar steam is one of the few things that can make me shed a tear. -It burns!! It was worse than that bottle of 25% ammonia I 'found'. (probably because I couldn't run away and wash my eyes out.)
After all that stink I don't think it washed out much gunk. I ended up with a pot of green liquid.

-Leak testing the Cheapskate way. My gallon of Mr. Bubble has helped me find many gas leaks. The pressure test was brief. The pen used as an end cap in the picture is probably orbiting over your home as you read this.

-This is not some wierd holiday ornament. I'm just letting the clear coat dry. I had trouble getting the Minwax polyurethane off the line I had to splice. I soaked it overnight in paint thinner, worked on it with an acetone-soaked rag, and hit it with PVC cleaner/solvent. The PVC cleaner worked best, but it was still a pain. As I was sitting there with the chemical mask and gloves on, I realized I was under my buffing wheel, so I tried that. Next time I'm machine polishing this sh*t!! It worked great!
-ANYway... the punchline is after all that I had to clean the blackened polish wax of the pipe, so I rubbed it down with isoprophyl alcohol and a rag. The varnish just fell off when the rubbing alcohol hit it.

-Some parts for a speaker mount I cut.

-Two pipes in... I think I used only a foot of the Tygon that Danger Den sent me total.

-The pump had to come loose to get this connection on. Everything else was easy.

-Another one of those problems with the new board. The AGP video card is in a higher slot, and is nearly touching the pipe. The floppy cable is stuffed between them to prevent any mishaps.

-Big gobs of clear epoxy were used to secure the speaker in the mounting bracket, and fix the fit problem with the fillport threads. Any one know if epoxy resin and computer coolant get along?

-I taped my riser screws in place so they would be ready for the clumsy motherboard refit. The cold cathode tubes are out... There's no room for them anymore.

-All in, and my cablemass is still a freaky mess.

-The first sign I didn't think my loop out right. The air is impossible to bleed out. The tilt in the reservoir feeds worked like a toilet U-bend. The placement of the T-line and fillport is drawing air into the loop too.

Back after intermission. [ music...]

A HUGE part of this update was brought to you by DangerDen!

 

I had to find another pen for a temporary fillport cap.

-The leak test. As I suspected, the bit that had to be siliconed into the T-line was damaged putting the hoses on. I also have air leak in the expansion bottle. Silicone does not stick to polyethylene, (that's why they use it on the glue tube cap.) The seal on both ends has failed.

-A blurry shot of the waterblock. The collision of the in and out line can be seen here. There's not much restriction in the loop. The foam is shooting through the inlet tube at a billion miles an hour. The red coolant turns the entire block red. Much better than the green!

-The other design flaw: The reservoir was intended to be like an expanded area of the tubing,-linear, in-line, whatever you call it. The problem is The pump is so strong it's creating a current that pulls air down to the pump intake. Air in the system is somehow being transfered to the fill line. Because of that upward tilt, it stays there, and little bits of it get sucked back into the pump. So until I fix the expansion bottle, I can't get air out of the reservoir, and the loop.
So the whole thing sounds like a dishwasher right now.

-My solution to the leak? Just gob it over with a ton of clear epoxy. -I already had it out, after all. Now you know why I want to know if the coolant will mix badly with epoxy. It just needs to hold for the holidays...(JINX!)

A few last tidbits...
The new watercooled temp: 88 F at 68 F room temp. (with lots of foam in the loop.)
Total weight completed: 41 pounds. (OOF! It's a brick!)

I'm almost done for the year. After the dust settles from holiday chaos I'll get to cable management and putting together a custom mousie. I have pics of this beast running to upload too.

So... Am I in the running for mod of the year?
Or will I get clobbered again?

For all your one-stop Christmas shopping! Get Grandma some cool WC gear!

 

This is a very cool project that must have taken a lot of skills and work hours, i like that you are doing all the parts by your self (the waterblock looks really nice),looking forward to the final result.

 

Thank you TapperSwe! I'm not going to do much more to it, and I should have pics of it running up soon. I've been too busy to use this computer yet.

 

Starting to look crazy complicated and full inside,... I love it! Great work man!

 

Thanks Tribal! Full is a good word for it! I had to use hemostats(right word?) to get the motherboard plugged in.

Have some blurry pics of everything running. I will take better ones if the sun ever comes out.


-Da block. The foam breaks up the light quickly.

-lights on...

-mid day darkness...

-curtains closed. I stuffed the stray UV LED under the pump mounting for a nice creepy glow.

-A blutty shot of the finished and installed Coca-Cola fillport for you. The undersized barb required a stronger hose clamp.

Again I thank Danger Den for helping me get this system running.

 

In the picture with the funnel, it looks like you gave it an enema! LOL

The copper-lines is a really cool way of getting it done!

On another note, as a reply to the guy making the G5 wannabe: Yeah... Make your own! With all the ideas you have for the G5 mods in here, and the work you've done on this, I would loooooove to see where you could take it!

 

lols

 

If I EVER find that pen again... It went off like a gun, -POW!

@Angel OD -It was very enema-like. When I jump started the pump, It shot coolant off the ceiling. I can safely say that DangerDen's PC Chill is carpet friendly. I wiped it up without staining. It didn't stain the paint on the wall either, ...and it washed out of my pillow cases... and my shirt...
I'm glad you like my work. I am keeping an eye out for a G5. The Idea of grass-green plexi covers on a polished G5 still calls to me.
-But do I really want to do all that drilling?

 

OMG... lol

That would have been a Kodac Moment right there!

Mental note to self: Use DangerDen's PC Chill ... (A lil shout-out to sponsors there!)

Oh yeah you do... The best thing would ofcourse be, having a cnc-mill to do the holes! But as you know after all the plexi-work you've done, just be carefull as **** that the drill don't "Catch on" to the plexi... Then it will have a life of it's own!

(I am your concience... I command you to drill... LOL)