about your logo, what i have done for my customers lately is, a friend of mine has a printer that can print on anything up to 9 feet wide and 1/4 inch thick, and i have him print logos/pictures/etc in reverse on plexi, then cut my window from that, in a lighted case u then have a backlit full color image, and it's still a window where theres not ink, and since it's on the inside of the plexi, it's glossy and protected
Yeah, and I was thinking about adding a gramme of cocaine in my loop . Xarig, doesnt that L-shaped fitting right on your cpu block kinda 'blocks' your whaterflow a tiny bit? I've used L-shaped fittings on my pumps and found it mattered 2-3 degrees in my system. So I chose a bit longer tubing and a 'deeper' case .
If your UV effect is as per your avatar then then I guess it's just personal taste. In fact the photos aren't really doing the UV effect justice. Have you got a log I can checkout for more detail. The colouration in the block is quite close to yours, with the internal structure beautifully illuminated. I'm going to find out a bit more about taking better shots under UV conditions - just splashed out on a decent tripod this afternoon Everything I've read says that the use of these angles in a small bore loop makes little or no difference to the temps. NeXXo normally has lots to say on the matter. I'm pretty happy with the rig and as I have said before I am more interested in the overlook/performance ratio than simply just performance. In truth I'm a real virgin at overclocking and wouldn't want to risk too much with this kit..................... I'll save that for the other rig. Intersting idea th3madc0w, I look into it. Keep the comments coming folks
Yeah it like on my avatar (picture of my sturdy little block). I have the same problem with photos, The UV light is hard to capture correctly. Waiting and listening to Nexxo
Hard to capture correctly? My god, I can't even come vaguely close. Keeps coming out drasticly blue, and when I try screwing with the white balance it's a wacky green (looks cool but not even close).
I've tried messing about wiht my white balance and the same thing happens. Apparently it's a common issue with digital photography, something to do with the CCD sensitivity to different wavelengths of light. There's very little anywhere about how to take great shots of UV / blacklight.
Xarig, I'm glad you're working on this. I'm planning a project around Black/White/UV stuff and I wasn't sure it would look good until I saw your thread. Now I feel all unoriginal.
Very nice Xarig, but I dont see the point in cooling the chipset with WC. The default cooler for the chipset dosent make that much noise. but those are my 2 cent Otherwise the case looks great, and I love the coolers for your GPU's
Those small fans can be pretty noisy. Also there have been quite a few complaints about the fan failing in the first few months of use - not good and besides it just looks so sweet Thanks for the feedback
The A8N fan is EXTREMELY loud once you have other watercooling stuff in. The performance on the thing also sucks, and most of the fans on it haven't lived over 3 months (and going at 8500 RPM, what could you expect?).
Dont take this the wrong way... I love the project and your doing an awsome job. Just when i look at your water cooling it looks kinda.. taky the way its placed. Just how there is a really straigt tubing.. i dono maybe im crazy. i just find it more attractive when the water cooling is like... how do i say.. curved Anyway. i may be wrong.. but doesnt any1 else notice this?
you like your water cooling tubes curvy like i like my women yes curviness would give it a nicer look! IMHO
Man thats looks really awsome. once its completed are you planning on doing some high-res night shots for wallpaper? it looks that good...
Interesting point, maybe I should experiment with a curvy piece of tube in parallel (ish) to the one coming out of the upper Aqgraphx. My temps suck , I think there must be a airlock in the loop, probably in the top radiator. I can definately see that the Cuplex block isn't completely full - there's a very sizeable buble in it. ANy thoughts on what I should do? I've tried jiggling etc. Help would be very welcome
I tried to last night, having all kinds of problems with the white balance on my camera. Also the tubing isn't really giving me the kind of colouration I was after. Looking at it now as I type this the UV doesn't really cause the tube to glow, more like appear purple! I may have put too much dye in I'm gonna have a look at some UV blue tubing, maybe that will be the answer. I'd post the shots I took except they are on my other PC, which is now in pieces, waiting for the water cooling treatment Nothing too flash, just a nice quite loop. Let me know what you suggest I do about the temps. BTW should the bolts that ssqueeze the springs on the mounting for the Cuples be completely unscrewed? Maybe the thing isn't seted tight enough? I was very careful to apply the correct amount of thermal paste so that shouldn't be an issue. I'm really bumbling now.......... answers on post please
To try and bleed the system, lay the case on its side. If that doesn't work, pull the entire system out (if you can, if not, then what you can) and let it run on a table or something for a while, rotating it as necessary. I know the Evo isn't the best performer of the Cuplex series of blocks. It's more designed for looks rather than performance, although it should be decent at least. If you can, rotate the block so the outlet fitting is towards the top of the case, that way air won't get stuck. If you note how I did things in FF, I have my Cuplex Pro oriented so the outlet of it is at the top so air doesn't get trapped since I have had it happen before in that block. If it mounts how I think it does (similar to some Swiftech A32 hold-downs, where unscewing it adds more pessure), then unscrew it as far as you can. At least in a way that puts as much pressure as possible on the CPU. It's got a heatspreader, it can take it. I think an RBX block puts like 35lbs on an A64. But the best way to bleed it would probably be to remove the CPU block from the mobo entirely and rotate it around while the pump is running until you can see that there's nothign in it. Make sure more air doesn't float back in once the pump is off. The Aquajet really helps bleed air fast, my AC system was bled in literally five minutes or less.
it might have somthing to do with the 90, on the inlet to the cpu block. try replaceing it with a straight fitting. see if it makes a diffrent. other than that looks stunning (check your pm)
The performance difference between Aqua-Computers line of CPU blocks should not be large ( a few degrees ). The Cuplex EVO should give you good temps. The EVO is a large heavy block. Make sure you have good contact with the block and the processor's heat-spreader (see if you can rotate the EVO in it's mount..If you can..tighten the bolts). This may sound like Voodoo, but I am a fan of Arctic Silver thermal compound. But that is your call. The way you have your loop set up (reservoir high)(pump low) is good. My loop is more/less the same. My loop was free of air in no-time. I think you don't have good contact with the CPU & H20 block..
Firehed, Modsquad and Sc4mpi, thanks for your replies. Tonight I have: 1. Loosened off the spring bolts to tighten up the block onto the CPU - I'm pretty sure they were already putting the full spring tension into the block 2. Rotated my rig through every angle, chasing bubbles - not easy these things weigh a ton 3. Switched my Aquero onto dearation mode and left it to do it's thing, overnight. I so hope this works out. I just installed a loop in my 'regular pc' and that is overheating too - I'm pretty sure that's down to the crappy fitting on the evo block, with springs, it doesn't seem that tight. Oh btw I used the top notch Arctic Silver on by blocks too, used it very sparingly putting on a thin layer with a razor blade. How much do you think is needed? I'm pooped, off to be for an early night. I'll let you know what the moring brings
